Opinion & Analysis
Getting started with basic club repair, with tips from Tom Wishon
My journey into tinkering with golf clubs started small. A bottle of nail polish, nail polish remover and a simple “how-to” video on how to add new paint fill to a golf club.
Soon after, I found myself at the local hobby store purchasing a variety of model paints in every color I could find. Before I knew it, I found myself stamping, torching, applying gun blue, coffee grounds and motor oil finishes to my wedges.
As fun as it was, what I am about to share with you isn’t about custom finishes or paint fills. I am going to help you get started with the basic needs for the average player to get started re-gripping your own clubs. I am also going to share the basic needs for minor club repairs and club building at the hobbyist level.
In the past, I always had my local pro shop install new grips and shafts for me. I figured it was easier to just pay someone to do the work rather than purchase all the equipment I needed to do it myself. As time went on, I found that my grips tended to feel very different after each re-grip — one time they would feel too thin and the next they seemed too thick. It was frustrating to say the least.
The final straw for me was when I had a new grip put on a driver and requested a standard grip with seven wraps of build-up tape (I prefer a mid-size grip but with a firm feel). But when I picked up my club, it felt very thin. I asked the club tech if the grip felt like seven wraps and he agreed that there was no way it could be. He then took my club to the back, removed the grip and discovered only two wraps of tape. That was enough motivation for me to take the time and learn how to do it myself.
So who am I to give advice on what is needed for club building? After all, I can tell you that I am not a professional club builder — I don’t build clubs for a living, and I don’t work in a golf pro shop. I perform all my own work on my clubs in a small work area located in my garage. So why should you listen to what I have to share when it comes to building clubs? Because I had the pleasure of speaking with Tom Wishon on this very matter.
Wishon has decades of experience in the field designing golf clubs, and is also a master club builder and fitter. We spoke in detail on all the necessities needed to do basic club building and repair and I am going to share his wisdom with you.
Before you start you need to ask yourself:
What are the essential tools needed for club repair?
According to Wishon, the answer to the question depends on what club repair tasks the person wants to perform.
That’s why I’m going to break down the tools needed for club repair into two different sections: basic repairs and advanced repairs. At the end of the story, I share tips from Wishon that will help aspiring club builders cut through the rookie mistakes of club building.
Basic Repairs
Tools Needed:
- At least a 4-to-6-foot long sturdy workbench.
- Heavy duty bench vise with 4-inch jaws.
- Shaft vise clamp.
- Razor blade knife with a hook blade.
- Heat gun.
- Strong blade knife.
- Two-inch-wide roll of masking tape.
- Two-inch-wide two-way grip installation tape.
- Calipers.
- Catch pan.
- Grip solvent or mineral spirits.
All operations will be performed on your work bench, seeing that this will be your primary work area. If space is ample, it is better to go with a 6-foot long work bench. Your vise will be top mounted and should have at least a 4-inch jaw — be sure to use a shaft vise clamp when using the vise to hold shafts. This will prevent the metal jaws from damaging any paint or graphics that the shaft may have.
Mount your catch pan beneath your shaft vise. The catch pan will help keep your work area clean from grip solvent drippings and will aid in recycling the solvent.
Wishon believes it is better and easier to install grips with an air compressor. However, it is something that club makers only do when they have a lot of business, because of the cost of the compressor and the special nozzle device required to attach to the air hose to blow the grips on with the compressed air. If a person already has an air compressor, buying the nozzle and installing grips that much is cleaner than using grip solvent.
I have seen and heard my share of horror stories on clubs that have been ruined due to shabby work: short cuts, carelessness and a lack of knowledge. I have also had my own experiences of sub-par work performed on my gear. I once had a 3 wood re-shafted and explained that I did not want an extension placed in the butt end of the grip.
After receiving the 3 wood, I noticed that my grip felt odd. It felt as though there was a seam in it. I cut the grip off to find that not only did the club builder place an extension in my shaft, but that he used a piece of a broken shaft to extend it rather than using a real extension. That was enough to push me toward learning how to do shaft pulls and installs.
Advanced Repairs
Tools Needed:
- A reasonable quality graphite shaft puller tool.
- A Lock-Tite shaft holder.
- Heavy duty leather work gloves.
- A 1-by-30-inch small belt sander.
- A 48-inch ruler.
- An abrasive shaft cut off wheel to mount to a 5- or 6-inch bench grinder.
- Small butane torch.
- A stiff wire brush wheel.
- Bamboo skewers cut in half lengthwise.
- Cut up squares from a cardboard box, at 4-by-4.
- OVERNIGHT CURE Two-part shafting epoxy with a lap shear strength of at least 3,000 psi.
- An assortment of ferrules for 0.335 parallel, 0.355 taper tip and 0.370 parallel shafts.
- An assortment of tip weights in different weights (2 grams, 4 grams, 6 grams, 9 grams) in different sizes.
- One-half-inch wide roll of lead tape.
- A 14-inch fulcrum Lorythmic or Prorythmic swingweight scale.
As you venture into a more detailed roll of a club builder, you will soon learn how valuable leather work gloves are — just ask any builder who has accidentally touched a heated hosel with a bare hand.
Working with a propane torch works fine, but its flame is larger and hotter than a small butane torch, and therefore is easier to burn the paint at the base of the hosel on metal woods, or to scorch the metal surface of the hosel. Heat guns will work as well, although Wishon said using one for softening the epoxy takes much too long, and it is difficult to control where the heat goes on the hosel to prevent scorching the paint at the base of the hosel on metal woods.
For prepping the tips of shafts, Wishon recommended a small belt sander, which he said is best for roughing up all shaft tips.
“(For experienced club makers) The small belt sanders are inexpensive and do the job so much faster and more consistently,” Wishon said.
But he said that beginning club builders should rough up the tips of graphite shafts by hand using strips of 100 grit cloth back sand paper. This is better for beginning club makers to do until he or she learns the “touch” required to abrade a graphite shaft tip using the belt sander. To prevent sanding too much off a graphite shaft tip with a belt sander, the use of a TRizac belt is often better better. However, with practice the club maker can use the 100 grit sanding belt to rough up the tip of graphite shafts.
Wishon also recommends abrading the tip of steel shafts with a small belt sander with 100 grit or medium grit sanding belts, because even for beginners hand sanding steel shafts is tedious, time consuming and more difficult.
The 1-by-30 belt sander can also be used to finish ferrules to make the bottom of the ferrule flush to the top of the hosel.
“Doing this requires the belt on the small belt sander to be switched to one of the special ferrule turning belts offered by the larger component supply companies,” Wishon said. “The best ferrule turning belt is the BLUE fabric belt sold by some of the larger component repair supply companies.”
Ferrules can also be finished using narrow strips of 180 grit cloth back sandpaper, followed by wipe finishing the ferrule with a paper towel wetted with acetone. Wishon describes this simple process:
“The club is secured in the vise clamp in the vise with the club head end protruding out toward the club maker. Protective tape is wrapped around the very top of the hosel to prevent the sandpaper from scratching the top of the hosel. As like buffing shoes with a cloth, the sandpaper is used to sand the bottom of the ferrule flush to the top of the hosel, followed by steel wool rubbing the ferrule to smooth the sanding scratches, followed by an acetone wipe to restore the shine of the plastic ferrule. Thin protective gloves should be worn when using acetone.”
Abrasive cut off wheels are the best way to cut any shaft, whether steel or graphite, Wishon said.
“A rotating tubing cutter can be used to cut steel shafts, but really, they are a real pain in the a** to use, they wear out quickly and they cannot be used on graphite shafts of you will splinter and damage the graphite shaft., Wishon said. “Bench grinders are cheap.”
Also, acquiring a stiff wire brush wheel to put on the other end of the bench grinder is recommended.
“This is used to de-burr the steel shafts after they are cut with the abrasive cut off wheel that would be mounted to the other end of the bench grinder.” Wishon said.
When choosing epoxy, you want an OVERNIGHT CURE two-part shafting epoxy with a lap shear strength of at least 3,000 psi.
“It is OK to have fast cure epoxy for quick jobs, but only buy the fast cure epoxies from reputable club making suppliers and NOT, NOT, NOT from a hardware store,” Wishon said. “While there are some hardware fast cure epoxies that can work, unless you know for sure they have adequate lap shear strength, you are risking a lawsuit by using any epoxy that you do not know is made with an adequate lap shear strength.”
Tips From A Master
So what can we expect as a beginner?
According to Wishon, he said that simple mistakes can and will occur in our first few attempts and these can be and not limited to the following:
- Over-sanding the tip end of graphite shafts in preparation for shaft installation. “Only a very light sanding to rough all surfaces of the tip is necessary.”
- Over heating the hosel to soften the epoxy for shaft removal to the point the metal or paint or both are scorched. “With the lower temperature butane torch it is FAR easier to control the amount of heat and the location of the flame to avoid overheating.”
- Not fully wetting both the inside of the grip and all surfaces of the grip tape before trying to install the grip. This lack of solvent will allow the grip to get “stuck” and does not slide fully on the shaft.”
- Not being sure that the grip is fully pushed all the way on the shaft so that the butt of the shaft meets the very end of the grip.
- Using too much epoxy in the hosel and on the tip end of the shaft when the shaft is installed. “Only a thin coating of epoxy is required on all surfaces of the shaft and on all surfaces of the hosel walls. If too much epoxy is used, most all of it ends up being pushed up the inside of the tip of the shaft, which presents the risk of it breaking loose later on to cause a rattle in the shaft. Also, too much epoxy adds to the weight of the head and could cause your final swing weight to be higher than what you wanted.”
- Not roughing up the tip of STEEL shafts enough, and then having the head come off the shaft in play. “Steel shafts are tough as nails. The chrome plating on them is very tough and wants to resist sanding. So you can be rough with your tip sanding on steel shafts and never worry about damaging the shafts.”
- Improper cutting of graphite shafts so they develop a split lengthwise. “When using an abrasive cut off wheel, as the wheel is about to cut fully through the shaft, always ROTATE the shaft a little to prevent this problem.”
- Not measuring the two parts of the epoxy accurately enough or not mixing the two parts thoroughly enough and then not having the epoxy cure to proper hardness and strength.
- When shaft cutting, measure TWICE and then cut only ONCE!
Practice… Practice… Practice and More Practice
If you have the time and extra money, attending one of the week-long club making and club repair schools that are offered by Golf Works and Mitchell Golf will definitely shorten the learning curve a lot and will also give the beginning club maker a good dose of confidence in the development of his skills.
When the time comes where the beginning club builder feels confident and a sense of skill have developed, “DO NOT do any club work for golfers who are not a close friends or family members until you get GOOD at all the workbench skills,” Wishon said.
“It takes 50 good jobs to overcome the damage that can be done to your reputation from one bad job done to the wrong player’s clubs,” Wishon said. “Do not allow yourself to get what we call “sophomore-itis” in your club making. What we mean is that it is VERY common for a person to get overconfident and think they are a top-quality club maker when in reality they do not know as much as they think they do.”
Taking the plunge from player to club builder can be a hesitant one. From my experience I can say this much, it’s not as hard as you think. You don’t need to spend a fortune to get started. Start small with simple re-grips.
If the time comes and you want to proceed a little further into club building, don’t be afraid to make mistakes. Mistakes are going to happen, it’s a part of the learning process. During my first shaft install, I was so excited that I forgot to place the ferule on the shaft before installing the head.
But stick with it, because after all is said and done, there is nothing more rewarding than playing with gear that YOU built.
As the editor-in-chief of this website and an observer of the GolfWRX forums and other online golf equipment discourse for over a decade, I’m pretty well attuned to the grunts and grumbles of a significant portion of the golf equipment purchasing spectrum. And before you accuse me of lording above all in some digital ivory tower, I’d like to offer that I worked at golf courses (public and private) for years prior to picking up my pen, so I’m well-versed in the non-degenerate golf equipment consumers out there. I touched (green)grass (retail)!
Complaints about the ills of and related to the OEMs usually follow some version of: Product cycles are too short for real innovation, tour equipment isn’t the same as retail (which is largely not true, by the way), too much is invested in marketing and not enough in R&D, top staffer X hasn’t even put the new driver in play, so it’s obviously not superior to the previous generation, prices are too high, and on and on.
Without digging into the merits of any of these claims, which I believe are mostly red herrings, I’d like to bring into view of our rangefinder what I believe to be the two primary difficulties golf equipment companies face.
One: As Terry Koehler, back when he was the CEO of Ben Hogan, told me at the time of the Ft Worth irons launch, if you can’t regularly hit the golf ball in a coin-sized area in the middle of the face, there’s not a ton that iron technology can do for you. Now, this is less true now with respect to irons than when he said it, and is less and less true by degrees as the clubs get larger (utilities, fairways, hybrids, drivers), but there remains a great deal of golf equipment truth in that statement. Think about it — which is to say, in TL;DR fashion, get lessons from a qualified instructor who will teach you about the fundamentals of repeatable impact and how the golf swing works, not just offer band-aid fixes. If you can’t repeatably deliver the golf club to the golf ball in something resembling the manner it was designed for, how can you expect to be getting the most out of the club — put another way, the maximum value from your investment?
Similarly, game improvement equipment can only improve your game if you game it. In other words, get fit for the clubs you ought to be playing rather than filling the bag with the ones you wish you could hit or used to be able to hit. Of course, don’t do this if you don’t care about performance and just want to hit a forged blade while playing off an 18 handicap. That’s absolutely fine. There were plenty of members in clubs back in the day playing Hogan Apex or Mizuno MP-32 irons who had no business doing so from a ballstriking standpoint, but they enjoyed their look, feel, and complementary qualities to their Gatsby hats and cashmere sweaters. Do what brings you a measure of joy in this maddening game.
Now, the second issue. This is not a plea for non-conforming equipment; rather, it is a statement of fact. USGA/R&A limits on every facet of golf equipment are detrimental to golf equipment manufacturers. Sure, you know this, but do you think about it as it applies to almost every element of equipment? A 500cc driver would be inherently more forgiving than a 460cc, as one with a COR measurement in excess of 0.83. 50-inch shafts. Box grooves. And on and on.
Would fewer regulations be objectively bad for the game? Would this erode its soul? Fortunately, that’s beside the point of this exercise, which is merely to point out the facts. The fact, in this case, is that equipment restrictions and regulations are the slaughterbench of an abundance of innovation in the golf equipment space. Is this for the best? Well, now I’ve asked the question twice and might as well give a partial response, I guess my answer to that would be, “It depends on what type of golf you’re playing and who you’re playing it with.”
For my part, I don’t mind embarrassing myself with vintage blades and persimmons chasing after the quasi-spiritual elevation of a well-struck shot, but that’s just me. Plenty of folks don’t give a damn if their grooves are conforming. Plenty of folks think the folks in Liberty Corner ought to add a prison to the museum for such offences. And those are just a few of the considerations for the amateur game — which doesn’t get inside the gallery ropes of the pro game…
Different strokes in the game of golf, in my humble opinion.
Anyway, I believe equipment company engineers are genuinely trying to build better equipment year over year. The marketing departments are trying to find ways to make this equipment appeal to the broadest segment of the golf market possible. All of this against (1) the backdrop of — at least for now — firm product cycles. And golfers who, with their ~15 average handicap (men), for the most part, are not striping the golf ball like Tiger in his prime and seem to have less and less time year over year to practice and improve. (2) Regulations that massively restrict what they’re able to do…
That’s the landscape as I see it and the real headwinds for golf equipment companies. No doubt, there’s more I haven’t considered, but I think the previous is a better — and better faith — point of departure when formulating any serious commentary on the golf equipment world than some of the more cynical and conspiratorial takes I hear.
Agree? Disagree? Think I’m worthy of an Adam Hadwin-esque security guard tackle? Let me know in the comments.
@golfoncbs The infamous Adam Hadwin tackle ? #golf #fyp #canada #pgatour #adamhadwin ? Ghibli-style nostalgic waltz – MaSssuguMusic
Episode #16 brings us Cliff McKinney. Cliff is the founder of Old Charlie Golf Club, a new club, and concept, to be built in the Florida panhandle. The model is quite interesting and aims to make great, private golf more affordable. We hope you enjoy the show!
Last week, I came across a reel from BBC Sport on Instagram featuring Scottie Scheffler speaking to the media ahead of The Open at Royal Portrush. In it, he shared that he often wonders what the point is of wanting to win tournaments so badly — especially when he knows, deep down, that it doesn’t lead to a truly fulfilling life.
View this post on Instagram
“Is it great to be able to win tournaments and to accomplish the things I have in the game of golf? Yeah, it brings tears to my eyes just to think about it because I’ve literally worked my entire life to be good at this sport,” Scheffler said. “To have that kind of sense of accomplishment, I think, is a pretty cool feeling. To get to live out your dreams is very special, but at the end of the day, I’m not out here to inspire the next generation of golfers. I’m not out here to inspire someone to be the best player in the world, because what’s the point?”
Ironically — or perhaps perfectly — he went on to win the claret jug.
That question — what’s the point of winning? — cuts straight to the heart of the human journey.
As someone who’s spent over two decades in the trenches of professional golf, and in deep study of the mental, emotional, and spiritual dimensions of the game, I see Scottie’s inner conflict as a sign of soul evolution in motion.
I came to golf late. I wasn’t a junior standout or college All-American. At 27, I left a steady corporate job to see if I could be on the PGA Tour starting as a 14-handicap, average-length hitter. Over the years, my journey has been defined less by trophies and more by the relentless effort to navigate the deeply inequitable and gated system of professional golf — an effort that ultimately turned inward and helped me evolve as both a golfer and a person.
One perspective that helped me make sense of this inner dissonance around competition and our culture’s tendency to overvalue winning is the idea of soul evolution.
The University of Virginia’s Division of Perceptual Studies has done extensive research on reincarnation, and Netflix’s Surviving Death (Episode 6) explores the topic, too. Whether you take it literally or metaphorically, the idea that we’re on a long arc of growth — from beginner to sage elder — offers a profound perspective.
If you accept the premise literally, then terms like “young soul” and “old soul” start to hold meaning. However, even if we set the word “soul” aside, it’s easy to see that different levels of life experience produce different worldviews.
Newer souls — or people in earlier stages of their development — may be curious and kind but still lack discernment or depth. There is a naivety, and they don’t yet question as deeply, tending to see things in black and white, partly because certainty feels safer than confronting the unknown.
As we gain more experience, we begin to experiment. We test limits. We chase extreme external goals — sometimes at the expense of health, relationships, or inner peace — still operating from hunger, ambition, and the fragility of the ego.
It’s a necessary stage, but often a turbulent and unfulfilling one.
David Duval fell off the map after reaching World No. 1. Bubba Watson had his own “Is this it?” moment with his caddie, Ted Scott, after winning the Masters.
In Aaron Rodgers: Enigma, reflecting on his 2011 Super Bowl win, Rodgers said:
“Now I’ve accomplished the only thing that I really, really wanted to do in my life. Now what? I was like, ‘Did I aim at the wrong thing? Did I spend too much time thinking about stuff that ultimately doesn’t give you true happiness?’”
Jim Carrey once said, “I think everybody should get rich and famous and do everything they ever dreamed of so they can see that it’s not the answer.”
Eventually, though, something shifts.
We begin to see in shades of gray. Winning, dominating, accumulating—these pursuits lose their shine. The rewards feel more fleeting. Living in a constant state of fight-or-flight makes us feel alive, yes, but not happy and joyful.
Compassion begins to replace ambition. Love, presence, and gratitude become more fulfilling than status, profits, or trophies. We crave balance over burnout. Collaboration over competition. Meaning over metrics.
Interestingly, if we zoom out, we can apply this same model to nations and cultures. Countries, like people, have a collective “soul stage” made up of the individuals within them.
Take the United States, for example. I’d place it as a mid-level soul: highly competitive and deeply driven, but still learning emotional maturity. Still uncomfortable with nuance. Still believing that more is always better. Despite its global wins, the U.S. currently ranks just 23rd in happiness (as of 2025). You might liken it to a gifted teenager—bold, eager, and ambitious, but angsty and still figuring out how to live well and in balance. As much as a parent wants to protect their child, sometimes the child has to make their own mistakes to truly grow.
So when Scottie Scheffler wonders what the point of winning is, I don’t see someone losing strength.
I see someone evolving.
He’s beginning to look beyond the leaderboard. Beyond metrics of success that carry a lower vibration. And yet, in a poetic twist, Scheffler did go on to win The Open. But that only reinforces the point: even at the pinnacle, the question remains. And if more of us in the golf and sports world — and in U.S. culture at large — started asking similar questions, we might discover that the more meaningful trophy isn’t about accumulating or beating others at all costs.
It’s about awakening and evolving to something more than winning could ever promise.
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Greg Pickett
Jan 4, 2015 at 9:17 pm
Over 40 years in club repairs and club building , even built a club with my own name. Worked for Bert Dargie company in Memphis when I was 16 years old . Had my own business doing over $500,000 books show it , closed business when times got tough in Memphis , but looking to go back in if I can find a partner , don’t want to do it all myself. Anyone interested E – mail me . Pickett.golf@att.net .
Katharine Merical
Aug 21, 2014 at 9:09 pm
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Forsbrand
Oct 7, 2013 at 3:21 pm
Love the fact the guy heating the putter head has no safety glasses on, especially when there is another article on here talking about having the right safety equipment!
Timanator
Sep 21, 2013 at 1:31 pm
Great article, thanks for taking your time to spell it all out.
Joe Golfer
Jul 22, 2013 at 3:49 pm
Would definitely recommend that folks measure the amount of the two parts needed for the epoxy, the base and the activator.
20 years ago, one could almost eyeball it, as the two parts had basically the same viscosity/consistency as eachother.
Nowadays one part is much more fluid than the other with the modern epoxies. If one pours out two similar-looking size amounts on a piece of paper prior to mixing, you WILL be getting it wrong, and you’ll probably end up with a clubhead that very gradually begins slipping off your customer’s shaft over time, leaving a gap between hosel and ferrule.
Little measuring cups with graduated lines for measuring are needed to make sure you have equal amounts of Part A and Part B of your epoxy prior to mixing. Just eyeballing it won’t work nowadays.
Lance Dahl
Jul 7, 2013 at 10:53 am
Nice write up Kadin. Thus should be very helpful for folks on here.
Kadin Mahmet
Jun 28, 2013 at 12:01 pm
Yes, a spine finder can also be found at a decent price as well.
Kridian
Jun 28, 2013 at 3:21 am
I think a Spline Finder should be on one of those lists.
Andrew
Jun 27, 2013 at 12:31 pm
Great read, thouroughly enjoyed that.
I’ve done my own grips for awhile now and have been looking at doing some shaft replacements and this certainly gives me a boost of confidence that I can do them.
Chuck
Jun 27, 2013 at 11:09 am
Very nicely done.
A comment, and a couple of questions.
First, a high-quality club ruler (Mitchell Golf’s is the one I recommend) is the first place that I’d spend a little (very little) extra money. SO much more easy than a standard 48″ ruler. Nobody thinks about it, until they have owned and used a good golfclub-specific ruler.
Second; what’s “A reasonable quality graphite shaft puller tool…”? Brands and models, please. That type of tool is fraught with a bunch of designs that are cuaght up in competing patent-violation claims. There ought to be a good, cheap shaft puller for less than $400. The best one I ever saw was the Silvestri product, which was chased out of business years ago.
Third; what are “bamboo skewers split lengthwise” used for? I was thinking of using them to spear olives for a martini. But not for golf club repair.
Also; it was GREAT advice to skip the plumbing-style rotating pipe/shaft cutters. They ARE a pain in the butt. Literally. Get a cutoff saw or a cutoff wheel for a grinder motor. Just do it.
Kadin Mahmet
Jun 28, 2013 at 12:00 pm
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Bamboo skewers are cut in half and can be used to apply epoxy to shafts and heads. The shaft puller I use,wasI purchased from Golf Works for $75 and works great.
Joe Golfer
Jul 22, 2013 at 3:42 pm
Thanks. I was wondering about those bamboo skewers myself.
I generally use popsicle sticks, split in half lengthwise, but have improvised with many things in the past.
tiger168
Jun 26, 2013 at 3:54 pm
Love the articles, the journey itself is the ultimate payback. I just started building my work bench last winter. One thing I told myself is the caring for the environment. Since club repair really require lots of chemicals in the old way of doing it. I am on my journey to find my own way to better club repair by not using as much chemical as possible. Such as using air to remove and install grips and who says you must use chemical to secure the grips. And heat gun is not as friendly as good old natural gas torch. Looking at all the packaging and stuff around the parts and materials for preparing and containing club repairing parts/materials, it’s really sad how wasteful they are; and unnecessary. Many GolfWRXers do minor club repair and even inventing/building their own tools/ways which are just awesome to read and share. I love this web site/forum for all of us to share and experience and setting higher goals as a golfer. Only when you start doing club repairs, then I have found myself playing golf at a different level then my buddies who do not. I now have a lie/loft adjust machine as the next step of my journey. Oh, BTW, I bought everything used, except supplies, thanks for the WRX classified sections and I hate eBay!!! LOL… Craigslist is the way to go!!! Thanks WRX…
Kadin Mahmet
Jun 26, 2013 at 3:41 pm
Thank you all for the kind words, I really appreciate that! I’m glad you liked it. This was a fun topic to cover and speaking with Tom Wishon was a pleasure. His reputation as a Master in the industry proceeds him!
Sean Matheson
Jun 26, 2013 at 3:26 pm
Definitely a very helpful article. Up in Canada, components and service can tend to be very expensive in stores, so having the know how could pay off greatly in the long run.
Mr. Blair M. Phillips
Jun 26, 2013 at 11:43 am
I’ve been repairing, rebuilding and restoring older persimmon woods for about 5 years now. I’ve learned so much from others. This type of article helps those who prefer todays metal woods and graphite shafts. I was taught that,” •Not roughing up the tip of STEEL shafts enough” can cause a “failure in the field” but I have been guilty of “too much epoxy is used, most it ends up being pushed up the inside of the tip of the shaft, which presents the risk of it breaking loose later on to cause a rattle in the shaft and too much epoxy adds to the weight of the head and could cause your final swing weight to be higher than what you wanted.” I’ll have to make a mental note of that and make sure that in the future, I don’t use too much epoxy.
Max
Canada
bonneaustein
Jun 26, 2013 at 11:35 am
I love tinkering with equipment. I actually use the side of a grinding wheel to lightly abrade steel stafts while continually rotating the shaft.
hayzooos
Jun 26, 2013 at 1:06 am
Nice article Kadin, very well put together. I used to do simple stuff a few years back, but since moving to Chicago, don’t have all the right gear. Looking forward to getting back into it soon and will certainly reference this article!
Photo artist
Jun 25, 2013 at 9:47 pm
Excellent article. Great starting point for anyone looking to get into club repair.