Equipment
Wunder: How to fix the biggest hole in my bag
There is a section of my golf bag that has caused me more problems in the last three years than at any point in my life. It used to be a section that I had dialed in. VERY dialed in. It’s the section between 3-wood and 5-iron. From a distance gapping perspective, that section represents (in carry) 235 to 195. 195 is my current 5-iron number, and it has been that number for a long time. I hate it, so I’m gonna fix it.
It used to be so easy. For the first 10 years of my playing career, it was 2, 3, and 4-iron. Simple right?
In 2005-2006, I swapped the 2-iron for a 5-wood, added a wedge (from 54/60 to 52/56/60), and lost the 3-iron to make room. It was in that initial swapping that the problem began.
Now, 15 years later, that problem has turned into a complete abyss of doubt, confusion, and damn near Jekyll and Hyde performance.
To give you an idea of what I have done to find a recipe that works, these are the combos I’ve gone through—just in the past two years.
- Dr/3/5/7
- Dr/4/7
- Dr/3/5/4H
- Dr/3/5/3H
- Dr/3/5/3H/4H
As you can see, it’s all over the map.
In that time, the wedge set up has done its own flip-flop through a number of configurations
- 52/56/60
- 50/55/60/64
- 52/58/64
- 53/60
- 52/58
- 51/56/61
You can see how one part of the bag that doesn’t work can affect so much. I’m a good wedge player and play my best when I’m in a simple 52/56/60 setup. I’ve never questioned that—I do now.
Point is, I just want a bag that represents a fixed point of consistency so I can actually play golf and not manage golf.
Make sense?
And yes, I’ve been fit—multiple times, by the best of the best, but that still has yet to solve that problem.
What are the core problems here?
The issues I have are versatility, spin, and harmony. For example, I had a 7-wood I LOVED but it went too far, I had a 4-iron that flew perfectly, but I had one shot with it (no versatility). I had multiple 5-woods but some flew great and some went too far.
Point is, it’s a mess. I would stand on long par 3’s or second shots into par 5’s, and unless it was a perfect number for each club, I found myself chipping a 5-wood or trying to reef on a 4-iron. Yes, I understand that happens, but the margin for error was nil. We live in an age where the margin for error should be a no brainer. Clubs do it all these days. So like my good friend Ian Fraser has said
“If you don’t have time to change your swing, let the clubs do it for you”
My plan of action
So here is the plan. I’m going to start with the clubs I KNOW I hit well. “Hitting it well,” in this case, means consistent yardage, face contact, and playability.
For me that looks like:
- Driver: 275-280 carry
- 3-wood: 245-250 carry
- 5-iron: 195 carry
- 6-iron: 180 carry
- 7-iron: 165 carry
- 8-iron: 150 carry
- 9-iron: 135 carry
- PW: 125 carry
- 52: 110 carry
- 56: 100 carry
- 60: 85 carry
So after the putter that leaves me 2 clubs that need to do so much.
- Need to fill a 50-yard gap
- Need to be an off-the-tee option
- I need to have confidence in them
- Need to have a ridiculous amount of versatility
So I’m going hunting, and I won’t stop until that part is sorted. My hunch is, once I solidify that part, my bag will actually be a set of tools and not 11 tools, a putter, and two monkey wrenches.
I’ll update this as I go, but I’m giving myself a time limit to get it right. August 15, 2020, and that’s it.
Here we go.
In a golf world where players are looking to eke out every yard possible, usually by lengthening their drivers to add clubhead speed, there’s one player at the PGA Championship who’s going in the opposite direction. In fact, for Rickie Fowler, his goal off the tee is not about gaining extra distance or yards north to south, but rather about shrinking the misses from east to west.
Ahead of the PGA Championship and the week prior at the Truist Championship. Fowler mentioned to Cobra Tour Rep Ben Schomin that the driver didn’t quite swing feel the same as everything in the bag. As a result, and with Schomin’s suggestion to try and sync everything up with the big stick, Fowler decided to test out a shorter length shaft.
“He’s been at 45 (inches), and he’d been at 45 for a few weeks, 44 1/8 (inches) is really is where he is been living really for the most part, for the last couple of years, and is where he is been comfortable,” Schomin told GolfWRX. “It just felt like it was a little long and loose on him.”
Interestingly, Fowler ranks 40th in Driving Accuracy this year on the PGA Tour. It’s his most accurate season with the driver since the start of the decade. But sometimes for players, feel is more important than statistics.
“It was really more of a trying to get the swing to feel the fluidness from club to club to club to try to get it to feel the same,” Schomin added. “And so we took it down to 43 and a quarter, and it was a touch of a ball speed loss, just based on that overall club head speed. But honestly, he squared it up probably a little better. The right miss wasn’t nearly as far. So really, overall down-range dispersion tightened up a fair amount, and he felt confident in swinging it.”
The change in length had Fowler’s caddie, Ricky Romano, beaming at how well he had driven during Tuesday’s practice round at Aronimink. So much so, he was asking Schomin not to suggest changes anymore.
Fowler’s shaft-shortening is one of a few driver adjustments he’s made this season, and to Schomin’s credit, it’s thanks to the fact that he and the rest of the Cobra team had Fowler fit very well into three of the four heads in the Cobra OPTM lineup.
“He had three distinct drivers and the biggest decision was trying to decide which worked best at that time,” Schomin told GolfWRX previously. “He’s played the majority of the season with OPTM X, but has also played a couple of tournaments with OPTM LS. His overall driving stats have been good.”
At the RBC Heritage earlier this spring, Fowler switched drivers, changing from his Cobra OPTM X and into the Tour, low-loft Max K model that Gary Woodland used to win just a few weeks prior.
Now for the PGA Championship, Fowler’s back in the X head, but still using the UST Mamiya LIN-Q PowerCore White 6TX shaft, just a little bit shorter.
“Will he stay there? I’m not sure,” Schomin added. “Could we end up say at like 43 and 7.5 (of an inch). If it’s giving him the same feel of consistency through the bag, then I think we might end up just a touch longer. But if he likes where he is at, he’s confident where he is at, that’s really all that matters.”
If there’s more testing, though, just don’t tell his caddie.
What you need to know: As is customary for the Fairhaven-based company, Titleist officially announced today that its GTS drivers are headed to retail, following a successful tour release. The GTS2, GTS3, and GTS4 drivers will be available in golf shops June 11.
Since debuting at the Texas Children’s Houston Open, the new GTS lineup has quickly gained traction on the PGA Tour, with more than 50 players already making the switch to a GTS2, GTS3, or GTS4 driver. Among them are Justin Thomas and Jordan Spieth.
Justin Thomas’ Titleist GTS2 driver (Greg Moore, GolfWRX)
According to Titleist, the GTS series builds upon the performance foundation established by the GT Series, while introducing several major technological advancements, including a new Split Mass Frame construction, refined aerodynamics, and an updated Speed Sync face design.
2026 Titleist GTS drivers: What’s new, key technology
Split Mass Frame and thermoform body
At the center of the new GTS lineup is a redesigned internal structure: the Split Mass Frame. This technology works with a full-thermoform body made from Titleist’s Proprietary Matrix Polymer (PMP), a lightweight composite that enables engineers to reposition mass more efficiently throughout the head. Compared to the previous GT generation, GTS drivers feature nearly double the PMP material, increasing from 13 grams to 26 grams, while maintaining the sound and feel preferred by better players.
The weight savings from the thermoform construction allowed Titleist engineers to strategically separate mass placement inside the head. Specifically, more weight is pushed rearward to improve stability and forgiveness, while additional mass is positioned low and forward to optimize speed, launch, and spin.
In short, golfers are able to maintain ball speed and consistency across both centered and off-center strikes.
Faster aerodynamics
Titleist also refined the aerodynamic shaping of the GTS heads to help players generate more clubhead speed.
The tails of the new GTS2 and GTS3 heads have been raised compared to previous models, helping airflow stay attached to the crown and sole longer during the swing. According to Titleist, the improved airflow reduces drag and increases speed without affecting launch conditions or center of gravity placement.
Typically, aerodynamic gains can compromise forgiveness or launch characteristics, but the weight savings from the Split Mass Frame allowed engineers to preserve preferred CG locations.
New Speed Sync face
The new Speed Sync Face design is engineered to improve ball speed retention across a larger portion of the face. A reinforced perimeter structure helps maximize face deflection and COR on centered strikes, while the upper portion of the support ring is opened up to increase speed on high-face impacts, a common strike location for many golfers. The face also features a variable thickness design to preserve speed and performance across a wider impact area.
Expanded adjustability
Each GTS model includes a dual-weighting system to fine-tune launch, spin, and shot shape more precisely than previous generations. GTS2 uses interchangeable forward and aft weights, while GTS3 and GTS4 combine a rear weight with an adjustable forward track weight system.
Tour-inspired face graphics
The new lineup features redesigned high-contrast face graphics to improve alignment and framing at address, according to Titleist. Sharp visual lines are designed to make it easier to center the golf ball and to perceive loft more easily at setup.
Additional model details
GTS2
- The GTS2 is the most forgiving model, designed for golfers seeking maximum stability and consistent speed across the face.
- It produces high launch with mid spin and features a larger, confidence-inspiring profile behind the ball.
- Standard weighting includes an 11-gram forward weight and a 5-gram rear weight, with additional fitting configurations available.
GTS3
- The GTS3 is aimed at players who want more control over launch, spin, and shot shaping.
- Compared to GTS2, the GTS3 offers lower launch and spin while featuring a more compact profile and deeper face design preferred by many stronger players.
- The head features an adjustable forward-track weight system to further fine-tune center of gravity placement.
GTS4
- The lowest-spinning option in the lineup, GTS4 is built for golfers looking to reduce excessive spin and maximize total distance.
- Unlike previous “4” models from Titleist, the new GTS4 features a full 460cc profile that improves forgiveness and stability while retaining its low-spin DNA.
- Like GTS3, it includes a forward track weighting system for precise fitting adjustments.
What Titleist says
“When we talk about driver design, it’s never about the one feature or benefit — it’s about all of them,” said Stephanie Luttrell, Titleist’s Senior Director of Metalwood R&D. “Ball speed, forgiveness, spin stability, adjustability, exceptional sound and feel… these are all attributes that golfers care about. It’s our job to design a lineup that elevates performance across the board without sacrificing in key areas, and we feel we’ve done that with GTS.”
“We know that forward CGs drive speed with great launch and spin characteristics, but you need to be able to do that with an inertial stability that still preserves ball speed, launch and spin consistency on off-center hits,” Luttrell said. “We’ve never before been able to hit these CG positions and inertia properties at the same time, and we’re achieving that because of GTS’ construction.”
Club Junkie’s take
I feel like every time there is a new Titleist wood release, I figure they can’t outdo their previous driver. And every year, I am wrong and impressed with the performance. The GTS fits right into that narrative again, as I didn’t know where Titleist could go from GT, but they pushed the limits again, and my fitting proved the smart people there found ways to improve.
My past four Titleist drivers have been a 2 series as my swing typically requires a little height, spin, and forgiveness so I figured I would just get a new GTS2 and be on my way. During the fitting, I was impressed by the new GTS construction, its added PMP material, and the advanced adjustability on each model. My fitter, Joey, got to work putting together a GTS2 and we started there. The launch and spin were great, and the consistency on misses was very tight. My average ball speed with the GTS went up a little bit as the new Speed Sync face creates more speed away from the center.
Joey then built up a GTS3 in 11 degrees, but I figured this wouldn’t have the stability I needed for tight dispersion on my miss hits. That thought was quickly erased after a few shots, and I really liked the more center start line and reduced draw on the misses I was seeing. We tried a few different settings and shafts to dial in the details in order to get the best fit. Having a forward and rear weight in the head allowed Joey to set up the GTS3 with a heavier rear weight to keep the launch and spin up, while the Sure Fit hosel set flat created a more center start line for me. My misses were not nearly as far left, and I was really impressed with the consistency on the spin and launch when I didn’t hit it in the center.
Titleist again created a wood line in GTS that delivers improvements over previous drivers while keeping the traditional look and feel you expect. More adjustability, better off-center speed, and 3 drivers that are playable over a wider range of players should make these extremely successful in fittings.
Pricing, specs, availability
GTS2 lofts: 8, 9, 10, 11 degrees (RH/LH)
GTS3 lofts: 8, 9, 10, 11 degrees (RH/LH)
GTS4 lofts: 8, 9, 10 (RH/LH)
Featured shafts
- Project X Titan Black
- Mitsubishi Tensei 1K White
- Mitsubishi Tensei 1K Blue
- Mitsubishi Tensei 1K Red
Premium shafts
- Graphite Design Tour AD DI
- Graphite Design Tour AD VF
- Graphite Design Tour AD FI
Available for fittings and pre-sale now.
In golf shops worldwide beginning June 11.
Price: $699 (standard), $899 (premium)
Titleist has today introduced its new GTS2 and GTS3 fairways.
Lower and deeper center of gravity (CG) positions, new adjustable heel-toe weights and advanced clubface innovations drive total performance in the two tour-proven models.
- Tour-inspired polished clubfaces: To help players see more of the clubface at address.
GTS2 Fairway
The new GTS2 fairway is designed with a shallower face and a larger profile than GTS3, ideal for players with more sweeping deliveries with their fairway metals.
GTS2’s new face height, inspired by tour feedback, was designed shallower than the prior generation GT2 model and more in line with the GT1 fairway. Each loft in GTS2 leverages a shallower profile except for the 13.5-degree, which maintains a slightly taller face.
With its new dual-weighting system, the ‘2’ model now has heel-toe CG adjustability.
Lofts: 13.5, 15.0, 16.5, 18.0, 21.0
Dual-weight system: 11-gram weight in heel, 5-gram weight in toe (standard)
GTS3 Fairway
The new GTS3 fairway is designed with a deeper face and a more compact profile, ideal for players who hit down on the golf ball more with their fairway metals.
New to the GTS3 family is a 21-degree offering, giving players two distinct profiles in Titleist’s 7-wood loft.
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Jon Fresnerdur
Nov 6, 2021 at 5:01 pm
Is this to illustrate how far you hit it
Paul McLoughlin
Jan 23, 2021 at 7:39 pm
Its a complicated end of the bag, whereas much more simple at the wedge end. At the yardage zone you are grappling with, you must, as i found, consider distance obv, carry, ease of use or consistency, tee and/or fairway needs, wind. For me, no point being a slave to carry, because for eg, at those distances, if you have to carry water are you not better laying up?. You need to able to hit consistent shots, and in my case deal with wind. no point in filling this gap with an unusable club or an inconsistent one.
Doctor Hook
Jan 7, 2021 at 10:08 pm
I fill a similar gap in my bag with a Cobra utility iron (super consistent shot shape and distance, good from tee and fairway) and my secret weapon- a Cobra one-length 18deg hybrid (epitome of versatility- I could play a round with it alone and still card a respectable score). It’s not perfect, but nothing is / can be in golf.
Wkndhkr
Dec 18, 2020 at 10:03 pm
I’ve been golfing for iver a full year now so I’m no expert but I thought this was just the game. I had no idea that the clubs had to beautifully line up with no gaps for any distance from the shortest to longest. I’m slightly facetious when I say it but if it were that simple wouldn’t we all be on tour. If tour players have this problem, why can’t we? If tour players don’t have this problem and we do, maybe it’s because we aren’t as good as them. I’m just a noob but why not just deal with the gap. You said your wedges are pretty good. Just come up short and use the wedge.
James Clark
Dec 12, 2020 at 10:06 pm
I am feeling pretty blessed right now. I live in Sacramento, Ca. We have a wonderful golf facility that allows customers to take any club to the driving range for a test drive. You would just have to keep trying different manufacturers until you found the club that gave you the distance you wanted.
Matt
Sep 28, 2020 at 9:57 pm
Are there any updates planned to this piece? I find myself struggling in the same area of the bag and would love to hear the progress made, if any.
Seth
Nov 25, 2020 at 2:10 pm
I am intrigued to know how this worked out too…
Paul
Dec 10, 2020 at 10:33 am
I have a similar set up. The two clubs for me that fill that gap are:
5 wood: 230-240 carry
7 wood:: 200-210 carry
Good luck
Bernard Fitton
Jul 28, 2020 at 4:26 pm
Try the new Callaway super hybrid 3 or the old Adams super hybrid 3 and add a long 4 iron like the Mavrik or TM P790. Maybe an adjustable hybrid 3 like the epic flash hybrid, can change the face angle to open if you tend to hit hybrids left and can adjust the loft to manage distance gaps.
Pelling
Jul 27, 2020 at 9:58 am
Amazingly, if you just went to 7 clubs, you’d probably score the same.
Driver
3 hybrid
5 iron
7 iron
9 iron
56 wedge
Putter
Jaybee
Jul 26, 2020 at 9:42 am
Bro, this is the perfect opportunity for the Taylormade GAPR MID! Not quite a hybrid, not quite a driving iron. Great flight. Workable. Use off the tee. SPEEDFOAM. Great deals online. Adjustable. Conversation starter.
Heck, the name alone speaks for itself! GAPr
Dennis Beach
Jul 26, 2020 at 8:19 am
Like Brendan H said, fill it in with 2 hybrids that you can have workable distances you can use. There are plenty of mfg’s out there, and you don’t have to play “big brands” to get what you want. Try some of the lesser known brands,as there are some that mfr nothing but hybrids. We’re so hung up on playing what the pro’s play, that we miss the big picture for our own game. I have a few club’s in my bag that are not big brands, but I would not trade those clubs for a set of big names for the world.
Dennis
Jul 26, 2020 at 1:10 am
Could you please add the loft of your woods and irons.
Chungus
Dec 18, 2020 at 1:17 am
True… I agree
DelacruzC5D
Jul 25, 2020 at 11:33 pm
I wish I had your issue…but I can understand the dilemma…
IF, I had your 50 yard gap, and wanted a tee club (which I am assuming is the next club in progression after the 3w), then I would consider a higher spinning 7w or 2/3H that protects against bombs. The guys at TXG just did their final video of “The Fairway Wood Bracket”, and while the SIM blew most everything out of the water, the Mizuno ST200 and Tour Edge Exotic had a higher spin rate, which seemed to regulate the distance. However, I’m not so sure you would want to hit that into the wind…but then I guess I would hit a 3 wood in that situation (which I assume is a low spin bomber).
As far as the next club, my guess/recommendation would be a 4H…but with a steel shaft. I had struggled with hybrids for a long time, and it wasn’t until I read about Web Simpson’s steel shafted 4H that made me try it. It went from my worst club in my bad to my favorite one. It’s now a club that I can hit low and high. In the grand scheme of things, it’s a fairly easy and inexpensive thing to do, so if it’s a flop, it’s not a bank breaker. If the steel is too heavy, then try something like a NS GOST hybrid shaft.
Those be me two bits
Ben
Jul 25, 2020 at 2:14 pm
I think the easier spot is the 4 iron option, I’d go driving iron for that. I personally use Titleist tmb and find it versatile and quite Useful in many situations. There are many of those types of clubs out there.
Andrew K
Jul 25, 2020 at 2:08 pm
I agree with the 3H and 4H combo noted above. I have the same set up and it works really well for me.
Ben
Jul 25, 2020 at 2:07 pm
I ha e similar numbers as you though I found something that works as a 4 iron which is the Titleist tmb (I have 718-4 iron). This fills the 205-210 spot well and has good flexibility with cuts and draws. Several of those types of clubs out there. More options than a 4 iron and for me better than a hybrid for trajectory control. The longer club which would either be 5 wood/7 wood or 2 hybrid maybe, I went Titleist u510 2 iron and it’s working well, it’s probably 225 carry, maybe 230 if I step on it. I tend to hook hybrids so I went that way. It’s an option.
Rick
Jul 25, 2020 at 8:43 am
I had a similar distance range issue – I hated my old 3i, and needed something that flew 215 to 230 (I have similar distance to the poster)…
I HATE hybrids. So I went on eBay and purchased a semi mint condition Honma Extra 90 4 wood (persimmon).
It. Is. Clutch.
Perfect flight. Workable. Not a ton of roll out.
Try the old stuff. The materials take away the extra distance the new clubs usually add, slotting you into the gap you need.
Henri
Jul 25, 2020 at 6:55 am
Srixon U85 4 iron and a 7 wood/hybrid?
Seth
Jul 25, 2020 at 12:53 am
Seems like a 3H and 4H/4i should do the trick. Maybe even throw a graphite shaft in the 4i if you wanted.
Similar to my setup.
Driver: 265 carry
3W: 240 carry
3H: 220 carry
4i: 205 carry
5i: 195 carry
6i: 185 carry
7i: 175 carry
8i: 160 carry
9i: 150 carry
PW: 140 carry
50: 120 carry
54: 105 carry
62: 85 carry/95 carry pressed
P: 6in short and pulled left
Steve
Jul 24, 2020 at 10:38 pm
This describes my bag confusion perfectly, except for the 5 iron 195 part. I’m constantly swapping out that part of the bag. This last week I went back to D, 5w, 3-P, 52/56/60. If I’d left the drive in the bag and just stuck with the 5w on my last round I probably would have saved 5-6 strokes. Also, why do so many people on this site have such rotten attitudes? Why are they here?
Loved the article.
Brendan H
Jul 24, 2020 at 8:39 pm
Seems like a pretty simple solution. Two hybrids. 215 carry with the first and 225 carry with the second. 230 with the second would also be fine as long as your landing angle is acceptable. I let my longest hybrid bunch just slightly with my shorter one since I get more rollout from the longer one. Total yardage gaps are appropriately spaced…
Make sure you take the Mavrik Pro hybrids for a serious test. They are superb, even with the stock shafts.
rog
Jul 25, 2020 at 10:44 am
This is exactly what I did. Experiment is working out so far. Got fitted for a 22 and 19 degree SIM hybrids that hit the numbers I needed.
Chungus
Dec 18, 2020 at 1:20 am
Can you explain your hybrid comment more. I don’t get what you mean by bunch?
Gianni sucks
Jul 24, 2020 at 7:17 pm
As Director of Original content, this content sucks. Why do I care about your bag and yardages?
John Wunder
Jul 24, 2020 at 8:00 pm
I would suggest you stop reading any articles with my name on it. I seem to write stuff you hate. Just a thought.
Jordan Evans
Jul 26, 2020 at 9:04 pm
Why should you care? Because the issue he is facing is the same issue that I’ve been trying to figure out and there are probably many others in the same situation.
The conversational style in which he addresses the issue draws people in and creates a discussion. It also helps others that maybe are struggling with the gapping issue to know that they are not alone or weird or stupid for not having figured this out themselves. Both of which help to create a community.
Communities have cultures too. One thing I respond well to is feeling welcomed and respected.
Your comment seems selfish and rude to me. Perhaps you don’t feel you’re getting what you need from this community. I’d encourage you to search for others that may give you more of what you need. I’m sure there are some that would be a better fit and I wish you well in finding them. Until then please don’t disrespect the moderators or members of this community anymore.
Acemandrake
Jul 24, 2020 at 7:04 pm
Driving iron (or GI iron) AND a Hybrid