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The Teeth of the Dog Experience

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Teeth of the Dog. Even the name is daunting. Rated the number one course in the Caribbean and number 32 in the world in the 2020 Golf Digest Course Rankings, the Pete Dye masterpiece on the south shore of the Dominican Republic lives up to the name. I visited the island with the sole purpose of playing the course, often described as Dye’s signature build, but what I ultimately found at the Casa de Campo resort in the town of La Romana was so much more than just Teeth of the Dog. My goodness.

THURSDAY 

I traveled, once again, with the old man. My dad is an able and willing golf companion and he was eager to leave the heat of our North Texas climate to escape to the Caribbean for a long weekend. The pandemic, ever-looming, created some hesitation but our research into the resort and their on-site testing and safety protocols eased our concerns. We made the trip. And the trip went smoothly.

Direct flights are available from DFW (as well as many other major cities) to Punta Cana and the airport was clean and efficient. A stay at Casa de Campo comes with a shuttle service to and from the airport provided by Prestige. More on them later, but I will tease by saying they are a tremendously useful and honest company.

We arrived around 5 p.m. and it’s a 50-minute ride to the resort. We headed straight to the main resort restaurant, La Cana, for a dinner overlooking the pool. Quite a start. I could immediately tell this place was wonderful.

 

Casa De Campo sits on 7,000 acres and is home to not only Teeth of the Dog, but three other golf courses, one of which is private. The other Dye course that we played, called Dye Fore, is actually three very unique nine-hole loops called Marina, Lagos, and Chavon. A round at Dye Four lets you pick which two of the three nines to play.

When you check into Casa, they give each room their very own gas-operated golf cart to navigate the property. Trust me, you need it. The activities and restaurants are sprawled about every corner of the property, but there seems to be four key locations: the Marina, Altos de Chavon, the beach club, and the main resort hotel.

Our room overlooked the 10th fairway of Teeth of the Dog and was basic yet comforting in its design. Everything you need in a golf resort.

FRIDAY

Friday was our first round of golf at Dye Fore. You could call it a warm-up round for Teeth of the Dog, which is what I initially considered it as. But I can tell you that the Marina and Chavon are still Pete Dye designs, and with that comes pot bunkers, elevation, beauty, and challenge. The first nine holes for us was the Marina, which starts with a wide-open par 5 that goes down before it goes up to an elevated green. It felt like a course that was going to be fun right off the bat.

Dye Fore has a variety of total yardages, depending on which nine-hole tracks you decide to pair together. Each nine is named for the spectacular views found on each course. The Marina course provides just that: views of the not-so-distant marina at the mouth of the Chavon River, where the freshwater meets the sea. The gold tees played just under 7,000 yards on the Marina-Chavon combo and it felt every bit of that. There are, however, six different sets of tees for all abilities and ages.

The greens and fairways are pure. This course is incredibly well maintained. This part of the Dominican gets about 40 inches of rainfall per year and the climate is obviously tropical. The Marina nine was really fun but not quite as “Pete Dye” as I was expecting. It felt a bit more resort course than I would have pegged for Mr. Dye.

Spectacular views of the river and ocean, but this side also has quite a bit of mega-mansions worth gazing at. One of the notable aspects of Casa de Campo is that the property is home to many villas and homes owned by people with, quite obviously, a ton of money. Lebron James was rumored to be visiting days before our arrival, shopping for a property to purchase. Lionel Messi had recently vacationed there earlier this month, per his Instagram. The place is a playground for the uber-rich, which just gives us “every man” golfers something else to ogle at while we enjoy the decently (~$200) priced golf for the quality of courses provided.

Many of the villas are resort-owned or affiliated and can be rented out as a part of your stay at Casa de Campo. Pretty incredible setting for a golf buddy trip if that is your speed and style. The resort website also lists several “stay and play” packages, which can include unlimited golf and food as a part of the pricing. I’d recommend going with the food package as we later found out the dining on-site was as good as the golf, and I tend to eat more than I play on trips like this.

The Chavon Course, in contrast to Marina, is largely isolated from the rest of the property and its villas. Instead of large homes and views of the bay, you get seven scenic cliffside holes dropping over 300 feet to the Chavon River. And I don’t say this lightly, but the views on this course rival the oceanside holes of Teeth of the Dog. It was amazing.

And challenging, to boot. There aren’t many trees on this side and the afternoon wind was up. The par 3s played long and the closing ninth (18 for us) is a beautiful par-five right into the breeze. The clubhouse for Dye Fore overlooks the number one tee and the nine green from above, along with the Chavon River, and is a great spot to have a Presidente Beer.

Number one tee of Chavon from clubhouse

Ninth fairway and green from clubhouse

The Chavon nine was as enjoyable a nine holes as I have played in a long time. Every hole is good and the views are just crazy amazing for an inland course. I was genuinely stunned. We could see hotel guests on boats and kayaks exploring the Chavon River, which looked like a lot of fun. But I preferred my view from the course.

Dye Fore Clubhouse and Bar

This course is 100% pure Pete Dye. Bunkers everywhere you look and long enough to be enjoyably painful. I have been fortunate enough to do stories on several Dye courses (TPC Scottsdale, TPC Louisiana, Whistling Straits, TPC San Antonio) and Chavon measures up. It is not quite as consistently challenging as the other courses listed above, but it has its moments of sheer dye-abolical punishment. And the views, ah the views, leave you asking for more.

The signature pot bunkers have become, at least to me, sandy memorials to Mr. Dye on nearly every hole. We miss you.

Altos De Chavon

Just down the road (walking distance) from the Dye Fore clubhouse is Altos De Chavon, a replica 16th-century Mediterranean village. Yes, you read that correctly. This charming little collection of shops and restaurants overlooks the Chavon River and golf course and is a real-life time machine. Complete with a huge 5,000 seat amphitheater used for local music and shows, Altos de Chavon was such a unique experience. The amphitheater opened in 1982 and Frank Sinatra gave the inaugural performance, which, believe it or not, was televised on HBO.

We spent an hour or so just walking around, questioning whether this place hadn’t really been here forever instead of built in the last 1970’s. Ultimately and hungrily, we settled at Chilango Taqueria, and I had the best tacos of my life. This is high praise coming from a kid from Texas, but I mean it. The steak taco is thinly cut steak wrapped in cheese and a pickle spear-sized slice of avocado. The flavor was oustanding. This place was so good we actually came back two days later for lunch, the only restaurant we repeated all trip.

The village is only open to resort and villa guests, keeping the streets free of large crowds. St. Stanislaus Church is on-site and has regular mass each week. There are also active art studios and galleries from local Dominican artists, as well as an archeological museum. I don’t know who came up with the idea of Altos, but I am grateful to them for allowing me the chance to visit.

Lesson with Teaching Pro Eric Lillibridge

That afternoon, my dad took the first golf lesson of his life. We met with Head Teaching Professional Eric Lillibridge, who gave the stubborn golfer a short game lesson on chipping and putting. Lillibridge, who after an hour of time with us proved himself to be a first-class teacher, is also just a fun guy to hang out with. Originally from California, he hopped around professional tours a bit before accepting the job at Casa de Campo and moved to the Dominican full time. In speaking with him about his life and journey, I can say confidently he is happy right where he is. And that feeling comes through in his golf lessons and the way he speaks about Casa de Campo.

The practice facility is first class. TrackMan is utilized in two covered hitting bays along with a full short game area. My dad, who is typically averse to any form of practice, left the lesson with a smile on his face and a few swing tips in his mind for the next round. That was fun to see. He even said that he wishes Lillibridge lived in Texas so he could take more lessons with him.

Thanks so much, Eric.

Dinner at the Marina

Casa de Campo, as you can tell, can fill up your day. You can make this a beach and relax vacation if you’d like (see: tomorrow) but it also has enough to do to fill every hour of your trip. On top of the golf and dinner options, there is also a shooting range for clay pigeon shotgun shooting, horseback riding and polo fields, tennis facilities and a petting zoo for kiddos. All reachable with your golf cart.

We took our cart down to the marina for dinner, which is more than just a marina. The resort has built another residential and shopping community, which has a European plaza feel. The center of the crescent-shaped community is home to a half dozen or more restaurants, one of which was called Causa, where we had a real nice meal. Causa’s menu was a hybrid of Peruvian food (think creole) and Japanese dishes. The sushi was awesome and something I wasn’t really expecting in the Dominican.

Saturday 

We woke up and had breakfast at Lago. Overlooking the 9th green at Teeth of the Dog and adjacent to the clubhouse, this made-to-order style breakfast has everything you need. Omelets, local dishes and fruits, smoothie bar, pastries, you name it. Not a bad spot for a meal, with the ocean in the distance, knowing that soon you’ll be alongside the water hoping your golf ball finds the green. And then it was time.

Teeth of the Dog

The entrance to the Teeth of the Dog clubhouse is guarded by a wonderful tribute to Pete Dye, complete with a bronze statue and his signature pot bunker right in front. Walking to the pro shop, you can’t help but realize that the experience you are about to have is going to be a special one. It’s why you came all this way. And it’s why Mr. Dye came all this way too.

The pro shop is spacious and well equipped. All the major brands are available, from Polo to Under Armour, and there was a large variety of clothing and gear for women and kids, too. That isn’t always the case for many courses, as we know. I spent a fair amount of time in the shop, as I usually do, and couldn’t really identify anything that was missing. I’m a sucker for Peter Millar’s golf shirts, and they had plenty for everyone. Even mediums.

The lockerroom has a real old-world charm to it. Open-air and the locker boxes slide out and don’t lock. The showers feel like they belong on the beach. This was my first round of golf in the Caribbean, but I feel like all island locker rooms and clubhouses should feel this way. The nineteenth hole is also attached, and completely open-air as well, overlooking the number one tee box and the practice putting green.

Teeth of the Dog gets its name from the jagged coral rocks that surround the coastline around both the course and much of the island. As the course was being built, many of the locals remarked that the rocks resembled the pointy canine teeth of dogs, and the moniker stuck.

The course opened for play in 1971 and Dye, ever modest, was quick to acknowledge that he was only responsible for the design of 11 of the golf holes, while God created the seven that hugged the ocean.

The course, from the tips, plays to 7,263 yards with a slope rating of 76.0/135. The gold tees are sub 7,000 yards, however, and the blues reach 6,429.

Teeth begins somewhat benign, with a sub-400 yard par four with ever-present bunkering from tee to green. If you don’t like sand traps, just don’t play Pete Dye courses. I do want to mention the second hole because what would’ve been a very run-of-the-mill 375 inland par 4 was, instead, made very memorable with some creative design. The tee shot forces a slight carry over a large bunker complex that follows along the entire left side of the hole, but half of that bunker is filled with round stones that make any errant ball unplayable. Wooden fence posts also stand erect around the border of some of the bunkers, which serve no real purpose other than to make the hole look cool. I liked it.

Hole #2 from tee

Hole 2 green

Holes three and four continue out towards the ocean, but you finally get a glimpse of the sea. Good holes in their own right (there isn’t a bad hole out here–it’s one of the best courses in the world for a reason), the ocean finally being so close only gets you excited to finally make that turn and get seaside.

The par-three fifth is the course’s signature hole. The tee shot plays about 155 yards to a tiny green with the ocean left and behind. In front is a small tree, protecting the right side of the green and rejecting low shots back into a bunker and beach just below. Yes, a literal beach, with incoming waves and everything. Ask my dad, he will tell you.

Holes six, seven, and eight continue along the sea, with the shore on your left, and honestly, it was all a bit of a blur. You want to play well, but you also just want to take it all in. It was reminiscent of holes six through ten at Pebble Beach, but the water is so much closer and in play here at Teeth. Gorgeous golf.

Hole seven with worth singling out, since it is a 222-yard par three over water. Gracefully there is a bunker fronting the green to catch any short tee shots from rolling back into the saltwater. Still, this hole is an absolute beast. Beautiful and terrifying, just like the ocean herself.

Teeth of the Dog turns back inland on the back nine. With four of the first nine holes being along the ocean, my basic arithmetic skills told me there were more of those holes “created by God” to be played. Hole 13, a 180-yard par-three, is a pretty great inland hole. The green is islanded by sand on all sides and a tree just left of the green. You cannot reach the green without walking through the bunker, which is pretty unique.

There is also a little bar hut set up on the 13th tee serving ice-cold Presidente beer. Yes, sir, it’s the island life for me.

Teeth of the Dog did not waste the seven oceanside holes with a boring remaining course. The architecture does not ignore simple design techniques that make the internal holes aesthetically pleasing as well. The bunker island par three, the cobblestone bunkering on #2, uniquely raised stone tee boxes, and the beautiful coffin bunkers all over the fairways, the creative routing with challenging approaches would rank this course highly even without the Caribbean close by. The course even has several ponds that bring fresh water into play.

And then, as you leave the 14th green and follow the path to the right, you see it again. The walk between 14 green and 15 tee box is a special one. The anticipation is thrilling, even though the course has already given you a solid taste of ocean holes, you know you are about to get a second serving.

Holes 15 through 17 are wonderful. The closing stretch is wonderful. Teeth of the Dog is wonderful.

Sixteen is the last par three, once again over the sea, but this time with the water on your right and playing 180 yards from the tips. Just aim for the middle of the green as this hole plays tricks on you. The green is not as horizontal as it appears from the tee, but rather it gets deeper the closer you get to the water. That means that the carry is longer if the pin is right. Club up.

The closing hole turns back to the clubhouse with a devastatingly long and uphill par 4. Playing 473 yards up to the elevated green, it’s a nice way for Mr. Dye to tell you “goodbye and come back anytime you dare to face the Teeth. Enjoy a Presidente and see me again someday.”

Pete Dye is one of the greatest golf course builders this world has ever seen. It was a sad day when he passed in 2020 for all of us who love the game. But his legacy lives on in his work. And it seems clear that there is no course he loved more than Teeth of the Dog. Now I know why.

The Beach Club

Dinner after golf was down at the beach club, which gave us an opportunity to soak up some rays and jump into the cold water that so many of our golf balls had enjoyed earlier that day. Beach access, like everything else on the property, is just a short golf cart ride away. The beach itself is typical for the island…gorgeous white sand crystal clear blue water. The Caribbean is just the best.

There is a full bar, large swimming pool, showers, and food trucks at the beach, which honestly gives you every reason to stay there all day. The Beach Club itself is also open to all guests, but it provides an adult-only pool and full restaurant. We had dinner there our final night, a great way to say goodbye to Casa de Campo.

Time to Say Goodbye

The flight out the following day was not until 5 p.m. Unfortunately, a Tropical Storm had hit in the early morning hours and rain continued for most of the day. So we stayed around the main resort building, ate some lunch, and thought back on the weekend we just enjoyed.

Prestige Shuttles arrived on time to take us to the Punta Cana airport, and upon arrival and check-in with our airline, my dad realized he had left his wallet in the car. I got on the phone and called Casa de Campo, hoping they would be able to get our driver, Enrique, on the phone so he could somehow come back to the airport. We figured our chances of that happening was low, so we crossed through security and my dad began canceling his credit cards on his phone. A nightmare.

But an airport official found us, told us Enrique was here with the wallet, and my dad was escorted beyond security to greet him. Enrique was smiling, happy to see him again and to return such a valuable item. That is the kind of service you get with Prestige, with Casa De Campo, and, in my opinion, with the people of the Dominican Republic.

We came for Teeth of the Dog. We left with a brand new appreciation for the beautiful island and the wonderful people it propagates. I can not wait to go back.

If you want help planning your next golf experience or just have questions about some of mine, reach out to me on Instagram and shoot me a message. And definitely check out my other golf experience articles. I look forward to hearing from you!

Johnny Newbern writes for GolfWRX from Fort Worth, Texas. His loving wife lets him play more golf than is reasonable and his three-year-old son is a tremendous cart partner. He is a Scotty Cameron loyalist and a lover of links-style courses. He believes Coore/Crenshaw can do no wrong, Gil Hanse is the king of renovations, and hole-in-ones are earned, not given. Johnny holds a degree in journalism from Southern Methodist University.

6 Comments

6 Comments

  1. Jim Nalepa

    Aug 27, 2021 at 11:48 am

    why didn’t you fly into La Romana ?

    • Johnny Newbern

      Aug 27, 2021 at 1:55 pm

      Hi Jim.

      Our preference was a direct flight out of DFW since we were traveling with our golf clubs!

  2. Deborah Plaisance

    Aug 27, 2021 at 8:27 am

    Johnny Newbern transports you to a place where you feel his experience. His detailed highlights are magical, wanting you to hurry up and join in this beautiful adventure. Of the articles I have read he has given me an inside look that you only dream about in golfing!
    Keep up the good work…oops play Johnny Newbern!

  3. Carmen

    Aug 26, 2021 at 1:33 pm

    It’s been too long – I’m glad, Mr. Newbern, your travel pieces are back. Looks like another place to add to my list, too.

    • Johnny Newbern

      Aug 27, 2021 at 1:56 pm

      Thank you for your kind words, Carmen!

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Courses

5 spooky golf courses with real haunted histories

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GolfWRX readers, I need to level with you. I have a guilty pleasure beyond golf: the paranormal. Ghost stories, haunted houses, the whole deal. And this month feels like the perfect time to come clean and mash both obsessions together.

What I’ve discovered over my years in the game is that some of the world’s most beautiful golf courses have genuinely dark histories. I’m not talking about clubhouse legends someone made up after their third scotch. These are documented hauntings, some going back centuries. And whether you’re a believer or a total skeptic, there’s something deeply unsettling about these places. That creeping feeling that maybe, just maybe, you’re not playing alone.

Victoria Golf Club: The April Ghost

Golfers at Victoria Golf Club in British Columbia have been seeing the same ghost for almost 90 years. A woman in white at the seventh hole. Her name was Doris Gravlin, and she was murdered there on September 22, 1936.

Doris was 30, a nurse who’d left her husband Victor two years earlier because of his drinking. That September evening, he convinced her to meet him at the golf course. He said he wanted to reconcile. Five days later, when neither of them had been seen, a caddy searching for a lost ball found Doris’s body near the seventh tee. She’d been beaten, strangled, and dragged down to the beach. A few weeks after that, Victor’s body washed up on the same shoreline. One of Doris’s missing white shoes was tucked in his coat pocket. Police ruled it a murder-suicide.

The hauntings started almost immediately. Doris most often shows up at dusk, wearing what appears to be a white wedding dress. She’s especially active in spring (March and April), which is how she got the nickname “The April Ghost.” There’s even a local legend that if you ring the brass bell between the sixth and seventh holes three times, you’ll summon her.

And people have seen her. Walking through cars on the road beside the course. Sometimes rushing toward people with her arms outstretched. In 1977, some high school kids rang the bell and watched a glowing figure float across the grass. Decades later, that image is still “very much ingrained” in their memories, according to interviews.

The club’s made peace with it at this point. Staff joke that “Doris is playing tricks on us” when things go wrong. I mean, what else can you do?

Lincoln Park Golf Course: Playing Over 20,000 Graves

Lincoln Park Golf Course in San Francisco has killer views of the Golden Gate Bridge and the Pacific. It also has a deeply disturbing secret: you’re literally playing over the remains of up to 20,000 people who were never properly relocated.

Back in 1868, when this area was still remote, the city established Golden Gate Cemetery here. Immigrants, sailors, Civil War soldiers, the poor: they all ended up buried in this soil. But San Francisco grew fast. The living needed the space the dead were occupying. So in 1901, the city banned burials within city limits and ordered all remains moved to Colma (now known as “the city of the dead”).

Wealthy families could afford to relocate their loved ones. Poor families couldn’t. And the city flat-out refused to move its potter’s field.

Between 1914 and 1917, when they expanded the golf course, workers just built directly over thousands of forgotten graves. Historians now estimate 10,000 to 20,000 people are still down there beneath the fairways. That makes it one of the largest collections of 19th-century skeletal remains in the Western United States. During heavy rain years, bones still surface. When the Legion of Honor museum expanded in the 1990s, workers uncovered the remains of 578 adults and 173 children. They finally got properly exhumed and reburied.

The paranormal stuff here is wild. Golfers report perfectly struck balls just vanishing mid-flight or dropping straight down out of the sky for no reason. Random cold spots on calm days. That persistent feeling of being watched. The 18th hole sits right over the old cemetery and gets the most activity. Some people think the spirits are pissed about having their rest disturbed. Others think they’re just trying to get acknowledgment: proof that they lived and died in San Francisco, even if the city forgot about them.

Baltusrol Golf Club: Where “Old Balty” Still Roams

Baltusrol Golf Club in Springfield Township, New Jersey, has hosted nine U.S. Opens. Jack Nicklaus played here. Phil Mickelson. But the club’s named after a murder victim who might still be wandering the fairways.

On February 22, 1831, a farmer named Baltus Roll was dragged from his bed by two men who were convinced he had hidden treasure somewhere on his property. They beat him, tied him up, and threw him into a pool of freezing water. Then they dunked him over and over again, demanding that he tell them where the money was. His wife managed to escape and ran for help. By the time she got back, Roll was dead. Whether he refused to talk or just didn’t have any treasure to give up, nobody knows.

Sixty-four years later, in 1895, some businessmen bought the property and opened a golf club. They named it after the murdered farmer. And pretty soon after that, the hauntings started. Groundskeepers started seeing a figure in old-fashioned farming clothes walking through the morning mist, looking for something. Members began calling him “Old Balty.”

He doesn’t seem dangerous. Just sad. He shows up most often near the first tee of the Lower Course, close to where his farmhouse used to be. When he’s around, people feel this sudden, intense cold. The clubhouse has its own weirdness too: doors opening and closing by themselves, footsteps in empty hallways, occasional full-on apparitions of a guy in 1830s clothes staring out toward the course, looking absolutely heartbroken.

The activity ramps up around February 22nd, the anniversary of the murder. And because the whole tragedy is so well-documented in court records and old newspapers, Baltusrol is one of the most verifiable haunted golf courses in America.

Pasatiempo Golf Club: Where Alister Mackenzie Rests

Most golf course ghosts are tragic figures. Not this one. At Pasatiempo Golf Club in Santa Cruz, California, the ghost is someone who actively chose to spend eternity there: legendary architect Alister Mackenzie.

Dr. Mackenzie designed some of the most iconic courses in golf. Augusta National. Cypress Point. Royal Melbourne. But he considered Pasatiempo his masterpiece. When it opened in 1929, the course had these dramatic elevation changes winding through rolling hills with breathtaking views of Monterey Bay. Mackenzie loved it so much that he built his American home right along the sixth fairway.

When he died on January 6, 1934, Mackenzie had one request: scatter his ashes over the sixteenth green at Pasatiempo. He wanted to be part of his greatest creation forever. And he got his wish. More literally than anyone expected.

Within months, greenkeepers were reporting sightings of this distinguished older gentleman in old-fashioned clothing walking the course. He’d examine the contours of the sixteenth green, then just fade away. Members kept spotting someone matching Mackenzie’s description: a tall guy with a distinctive mustache, wearing knickers and a flat cap. But here’s the thing: unlike scary ghost encounters, people feel honored when they see him. Like they’ve been visited by golfing royalty.

There’s this detailed account from the 1980s about a member putting on the sixteenth green who noticed a man in vintage golf clothes watching him intently. “He was smiling, like he approved of how I was reading the break,” the golfer said. After sinking the putt, he looked up to say something. Gone. The pro shop later confirmed, based on old photographs, that it was Mackenzie.

His ghost seems totally peaceful, just checking on his course. Some people think he’s making sure renovations respect his original vision. During one major project, equipment kept breaking down on the sixteenth green. Finally, the project manager jokingly apologized out loud to “Dr. Mackenzie” and promised to honor the design. The problems stopped.

City Park Golf Course: Echoes of Tragedy

New Orleans is hands down America’s most haunted city, so, of course, its golf courses have terrifying stories, too. City Park Golf Course, one of the nation’s oldest public courses, has a haunting so vivid that golfers keep calling 911.

The legend centers on the 18th green. The details are fuzzy, but supposedly, back in the 1960s, a man shot and killed a woman while she was putting out. And the echoes of that moment have never really faded. Dozens of golfers report hearing a gunshot followed immediately by a woman’s blood-curdling scream. The sounds are so realistic that people literally abandon their rounds and call the cops, totally convinced they just witnessed a murder.

When police show up, there’s nothing. After this happened multiple times, local police started recognizing City Park calls as ghostly phenomena rather than actual emergencies. One golfer described it like this: “We heard a sharp crack like a gunshot, then this scream. Not a startled yelp, but a full-throated scream of terror and pain. It sounded maybe thirty yards away. We all just froze. There was nothing there. The ranger told us we weren’t the first people to report it. I’ve never gone back.”

Some golfers also report seeing a ghostly figure behind the eighteenth green. A woman in old-fashioned clothes, translucent or misty, appearing for a second before she fades. Theories vary. Maybe she’s the murdered woman, trapped replaying her final moments. Or maybe she’s a witness who can’t move on.

Despite all this (or maybe because of it), City Park stays popular. The course is legitimately excellent and affordable, with beautiful tree-lined fairways and challenging water hazards. But when you approach the eighteenth green, the vibe changes. People report feeling watched or sensing this unexplained tension in the air. Some golfers rush their final putts, desperate to get out of there. Others pause and pay silent respect to whoever might’ve died on that spot.

Local ghost tour companies now include City Park in their routes, especially around Halloween. They actually encourage people to stand near the eighteenth green at dusk and listen for the ghostly gunshot and scream echoing across the years.

Look, I can’t tell you whether these hauntings are real paranormal activity, psychological suggestion, or just weird natural phenomena nobody can explain. But here’s what I know for sure: these golf courses offer way more than birdies and bogeys. They’re reminders that beautiful landscapes often hide forgotten tragedies and restless spirits.

So next time you’re lining up a putt and feel this inexplicable chill, or catch movement from the corner of your eye on an empty fairway? Maybe don’t dismiss it so quickly. You might not be playing alone.

 

PGA Professional Brendon Elliott is an award-winning coach and golf writer. You can check out his writing work and learn more about him by visiting BEAGOLFER.golf and OneMoreRollGolf.com. Each Thursday, check out his regular column “Playing Through” on R.org. 

 

Editor’s note: “My Take” is where Brendon shares his thoughts and opinions on various aspects of the game and industry. These are Brendon’s opinions and do not necessarily reflect those of GolfWRX, its staff, and its affiliates.

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Courses

Fairways & Getaways: Discovering a tropical golf gem in Indonesia

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If you’re a golf equipment enthusiast, you may already know that the US, followed by Japan and Korea, are the three biggest golf markets in the world. But if you delve a little bit deeper, you’d be amazed to find out how popular golf is in Asia in general.

Golf’s popularity in Asia has never been stronger. From Japan’s long history with the game to Korea’s high-tech indoor simulators, the sport has carved out a distinct identity across the region, especially with golf tourism. For decades, Thailand and the Philippines have been popular golf travel destinations for us in the Eastern hemisphere. More recently, the golf scene in Indonesia has also seen a rapid rise. With a growing community of homegrown golf influencers and its own major golf retail chains stocked with the latest gear from around the world, the game of golf is no longer just imported — it’s thriving on its own terms.

With state-of-the-art golf stores and facilities like Asia Golf and influencers abound (@evansetiawan90lf), Indonesia golf scene is booming.

Located a stone’s throw across the strait from Singapore, Batam in Indonesia is a popular golf destination for golfers in Singapore, Malaysia, and of course, Korea.

Batam is located just a short 30-minute ferry ride from Singapore, but it also has a direct flight to and from Korea, which made the travel plans all that much easier for me. So when the chance came to experience Indonesian golf firsthand, I jumped at the opportunity to join my friends for some quality golf and sightseeing.

Below is my account of discovering Batam’s very own Palm Springs Golf & Country Club (real name!)—an under-the-radar resort that proves Asia’s growth in golf is as much about quality as it is about enthusiasm.

Not to be confused with the more famous US counterpart, Palm Springs G&CC in Batam is a great golfing experience.

The Layout

Palm Springs is a 27-hole championship course with three distinct nines—Palm, Island, and Resort—each with its own flavor. The Palm Course is the sternest test, winding between rainforest and sea with steep greens and strategic hazards. The Island Course plays through mangroves an doglegs, demanding accuracy with every swing, while the Resort Course is the most forgiving, with generous fairways, rolling elevation, and gentle greens that let you breathe a little easier.

I played all three during my trip, and what struck me most was how different each course played, yet how seamlessly they flowed together. One round I’d be battling mangrove-lined fairways, and the next I’d be standing on a tee box looking straight out at the South China Sea, across the sea towards Singapore.

One of the many “signature holes” to be enjoyed at Palm Springs. Singapore can be seen just to the left corner.

Diverse golf experience from seaside views to tropical jungle and mangrove forests can be seen.

Each golfer is paired with a caddie and power cart to roam the course and enjoy the surrounding scenery.

The Experience

The greens here surprised me. Official stimp numbers of 2.8–3.0 meters (9.2~9.8 feet) felt faster in reality, thanks to subtle undulations and deceptive slopes. Staying below the hole became essential to help with my struggling putting stats, and the mere thought of rolling into the greenside bunkers triggered an involuntary sweat response.

Don’t be fooled by “resort golf” moniker as the Palm course offers more than enough challenge for the better golfers.

Rough was no joke as the ball tended to nestle down all too snug for my taste and skills!

I couldn’t quite place the type of grass on the greens, but suffice to say it kicked my butt all three rounds.

The type of grass found here are not what I was used to in Korea and the US. I found myself thinning way more shots for fear that the club head would not be able to escape the turf. The rough was also clingier than a debtor who hasn’t been paid in months and clawed at my irons and wedges with a vengeance.

The number of bunkers also made me wary on most holes. On my first loop around the Palm Course, I think I found one on almost every hole, whether it be a huge fairway bunker or a high-lipped trap towards a pin sloping away from me. The upside was that I was getting fairly good with my sand wedge towards the end of my trip, though if it could talk I’m sure it’d ghost me.

Then there were the monkeys. Yes, monkeys. On one par-4, I stood over my ball and looked up to see a troop of them, young and old, perched in the trees, watching intently. I swear one cocked its head in disappointment as I yanked my drive into the mangroves. They make for tough critics.

Bunkers were found aplenty on all three courses.

Whether guarding the green or impeding my ball from the fairway, the bunkers added to the overall scenery of the course.

I didn’t expect monkeys to be on hand to judge my swings, but they were a fun distractions. Be careful not to leave phones and wallets unattended though.

Clubhouse & Facilities

The clubhouse feels more like a resort hotel than a golf facility—two pro shops, dual restaurants (including a dedicated Korean buffet and an Indonesian dining hall), a ballroom, VIP lockers, sauna, gym, and more.

Classic Southeast Asian architecture from the entrance and throughout the clubhouse. All walkways are covered in case of the occasional squalls that blow through unexpectedly.

The club is said to have over 200 caddies to host large scale tournaments and events, including weddings and galas.

Practice facilities are top-tier, too. The driving range points out over the water, with floating targets, and the putting green near the first tee rolls true. I warmed up with a few putts, thinking I had the pace dialed in—only to have my very first birdie attempt scream by the hole a good 10 feet. The greens here demand respect… lesson learned.

Practice facilities were quite good, and also had a practice hole for serious golfers to hit everything from drivers, irons, wedges and putts.

The practice shots can be aimed at specific targets, including floating ones.

Accommodations

I based at Batam View Beach Resort, just 10 minutes from the course and 25 minutes from the airport. A four-star property, it delivered all the essentials—ocean-view rooms, pool, fitness center, and post-round massages (though pricier than in town).

The Batam View Beach Hotel was close by to the course and accessible by a shuttle on call. Quiet and peaceful with good food, service, and a live band in the evenings made for more than a golf trip.

One detail I really appreciated was the late checkout option on weekdays. For about $30–40, I could shower, change, and relax until 10 pm before heading to the airport. On weekends, when that wasn’t possible, our operator booked us into a nearby condo suite overlooking the 9th hole. Sitting on the balcony with a cold drink, watching other groups finish their round, wasn’t a bad way to end the trip.

You can also stay at the golf condo nestled right on the course, overlooking the island course.

Private and cozy with a small kitchen, shower, and Netflix.

Golf is just a wedge away from the golf condo and apartments.

Local Flavor

Aside from championship golf, Batam’s seafood scene is worth the trip alone. At a popular restaurant recommended by our guide, we walked a good mile out onto the open sea to a restaurant perched on stilts above the water. The local delicacy of chili crabs and black pepper shrimps were amazing in taste and freshness, and the perfect complement to the local beer. Another popular delicacy I tried was gong-gong, a small sea snail delicacy that locals ate like we snack on peanuts. I wasn’t sure at first, but by the third bite I was hooked on the dipping sauce.

After dinner, we wandered through the local night markets to the sights and scents of sizzling skewers, tropical fruit stands, and chatter of locals enjoying the balmy yet slightly cool tropical evening. The scene was completely different from the greens and fairways earlier that day, but the experience on the whole was just amazing.

The walk out to a floating restaurant was as great as the food served.

The atmosphere was casual and inviting, with some actually fishing over the side of the restaurant.

The local cuisine was spot on to my taste with a diverse menu for the even the most adventurous gourmet.

Final Thoughts

Palm Springs in Batam may not yet have the global name recognition of other Asian resorts, but it checks all the boxes of strategic golf, first-class facilities, comfortable lodging, and a taste of local culture.

For me, it turned out that the trip wasn’t just about golf. While sweating over a six-foot downhill putt with monkeys judging from nearby is unforgettable, so was the delight in or cracking open a chili crab on a wooden deck in the middle of the ocean, lounging by the pool with a local beer, and the kindness shared by the locals every step of the trip.

If you’re ever headed to Singapore and want more than city lights and shopping, be sure to bring your clubs and look into a short ferry ride across the strait. Batam’s Palm Springs G&CC is a tropical golf gem that deserves a spot on your Asia travel list.

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Courses

Ryder Cup 2025: Crossing to Bethpage – NY state park golf, part 3

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The history of the acquisition of lands for state parks and properties is a varied one across the Empire State. The first state park, Niagara Falls, was established in 1885. Many of us locals would love to have a scenic golf course located on Goat Island, with holes that ease their way next to Horseshoe, Niagara, and Bridal Veil Falls. We do understand, however, that the parkland is better suited to accessibility by and for all residents and visitors.

Work on state parks, especially the introduction of golf courses, ramped up in the 1930s, thanks to President Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s Civilian Conservation Corps and Works Progress programs. The state continues to acquire lands today, to preserve open spaces and critical habitats. For the golfing faithful, the 24 state-owned golf course properties offer affordable and accessible municipal golf.

The birth story of the 24 golf courses has the following chronology:

Battle Island – 1919
Sag Harbor – 1926
Bethpage Green (as Lenox Hill) 1923; Blue and Red – 1935; Black – 1936; Yellow – 1958
Green Lakes – 1935
Saratoga Spa – 1936
James Baird – 1948
Wellesley Island – 1960
Dinsmore – 1962 (18 hole expansion)
Sunken Meadow – 1962 (18), 1964 (third 9)
Soaring Eagles – 1963
Indian Hills – 1964
Beaver Island – 1965
Chenango Valley – 1967 (18 hole expansion)
St. Lawrence – 1967 (18 hole expansion)
Montauk Downs – 1968 (current design)
Rockland Lake – 1969
Robert Moses Pitch and Putt – 1970
Bonavista – 1970
Springbrook Greens – 1995

From the golden age of the early 1900s to the end of the last century, the courses of the New York State park system grew from one to many. Some (Lenox Hills) were adopted into the system, while others (Chenango, St. Lawrence, Dinsmore) expanded from nine to eighteen holes. What does the 21st century hold? That’s a tough question to pose, much less answer, but it concludes its first 25 years with one of the most notable golf competitions on the planet, at its flagship park.

It’s easy to divide the 19 parks that host golf courses into regions, but much more challenging to build a tour. Our second trip, to keep the disappointment to a minimum, was scuttled. Simply not enough vacation time for this working stiff to make a trip along Lake Ontario and into the Adirondacks. I’ve played enough golf in the North Country, however, to know how special those upper region layouts are.

Battle Island

From Mary Gregg and the NYS Parks website, we learn a nice amount about Battle Island. Ms. Gregg offers these insights:

“This park derived its name from a battle which took place on a nearby island on the Oswego River in the mid-1700s. In  1916 most of the land owned by F. A. Emerick was deeded to the state. Battle Island officially became a state park in 1938 when the remaining land was turned over. The popular course near Fulton lies adjacent to the Oswego River and offers golfers magnificent views from a number of its
fairways and greens. The 18-hole Battle Island State Park Golf Course is a challenging one for the budding professional and amateur player.

“From my own experience working at both Green Lakes and Bethpage; Battle Island is a short course but a challenging one. We don’t have any bunkers on the course, but the greens are quite challenging, hard to find many flat areas for pin placements. The views of the Oswego River are quite manificient throughout the season and bring a variety of wilflife throughout the season as well.”

As a youth, I heard tales of Battle Island’s brief but fierce layout from an uncle, an alumnus of the city’s state university campus. Short hitters have nothing to fear at Battle Island, but the wayward driver of the ball should certainly have a long day over the golf course.

Dinsmore

Dinsmore was expanded to 18 holes in 1962. Tom Buggy penned an insightful history of the course for the Staatsburgh State Historic Site, and we are happy to link it here. The course is the northernmost state park layout along the Hudson River, located in Hyde Park, the retreat of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt.

The history of Dinsmore is an interesting, curvy one. The original nine holes on property were a collaborative affair, built on 1890s land shared by three prominent area families. Known then as the Staatsburgh golf club, the daughter of the original designer would eventually donate the land to New York State, establishing the park that includes the adjacent historic homesite. An additional nine holes were added to the property in 1962. Two years later, the original holes were rerouted to form the current back nine, along the southern portion of the property.

Rockland Lake

The Rockland Lake State Park golf course could be forgiven for the occasional bout of envy. It sits in a neighborhood occupied by some of the mid-Hudson River’s finer private clubs. A half mile away is Paramount Country Club, an A.W. Tillinghast design. Tilly is also credited with the majority of the design work at Bethpage Black, a credit that he shares with Joseph Burbeck. Across the great river sits Sleepy Hollow Country Club, whose lineage involves work by Tillinghast, but mainly from C.B. Macdonald and Seth Raynor. And on and on.

In its origin days, Rockland Lake was used as a natural ice factory by the Knickerbocker company. So pure was the ice that emanated from its waters that the lake supplied much of New York City in those pre-home electricity days. In this new millennium, Rockland Lake plays host in summer months to many of the area’s golfers. Despite its proximity to the waters of the lake, a pond, and the river, none of the holes is within a mighty strike of the wet stuff.

Rockland Lake’s full-size course was designed in the 1950s by David Gordon, a well-traveled, regional architect from eastern New York and Pennsylvania. The big course sits on the northern end of the park. The property also boasts an 18-hole short course, located in the shadows of Hook Mountain, south of the lake that gives the park its name.

Saratoga Spa

Location is often everything. When your golf course is located not only inside a state park, adjacent to a popular performing arts center within the confines of the park, and a nearby, world-famous horse racing track, you have potential for a popular spot. Saratoga Spa’s original golf holes opened in the 1930s, although no architect is given credit for the design. In the late 1950s, William Mitchell did an overhaul of the layout, expanding it to the trace that is in the ground today. During the mid-2010s, Barry Jordan, another regional architect, came in to rebuild the entire 10th green and upgrade bunker drainage throughout the golf course.

Saratoga Spa boasts a testing, 18-hole layout that stretches beyond 7,000 yards. Alongside is a short course, with seven par-three holes and two par-fours. The course features a new fleet of motorized carts with GPS monitors, ensuring that golfers know where they stand at all moments of the round. In addition to the golf course, nearly a dozen natural springs flow through the Saratoga Spa Park. A large pool complex for recreation completes the park’s offerings.

Springbrook Greens

Alan Tomlinson may be the Hayden “Sidd” Finch of golf course architecture. He completed Springbrook Greens in 1995 … then disappeared. Nothing more is known about him, and no other courses bear witness to his skills as a router of golf holes. Springbrook Greens tips out at 5,800 yards and finds itself close to Lake Ontario’s southern shore. If you drew a vertical ray to the south, it would drop a bit west of Syracuse. It’s not much away from Battle Island, so there are a few state courses within a brief drive of each other, in this part of the state.

Springbrook Greens had an interesting first quarter-century of life, then COVID hit, and like many places, things went a bit off path. Fortunately for the region and its golfers, the Randall family leased the course from New York State Parks (much like Bonavista in an earlier step of this series) and brought the course back from a near-death experience. It’s pretty easy for a course to go astray, especially when basic maintenance elements break down. Among the images in the gallery, one will stand out for its lack of grass. Ron Randal tells the story like this:

“This was the 10th green in December the year before I took over. This was the worst but many had large spots that looked like this. I assumed it was a lack of proper maintenance but what I didn’t realize was that a lot of it was just irrigation heads that didn’t work or didn’t work right. This one was missing a head so the front 2 didn’t work at all and of the back 2 only one worked properly. Thank god it was a fairway head or there would have been no grass left at all.

“I assure you it looks better now.”

According to Randall, the fairways are back to what any destination course might offer. Putting surfaces have been expanded back to their original widths, offering a great many hole locations for diversity. Collars around each green and run-up areas have also been added to the course. The course spreads out over nearly 200 acres, is home to diverse, multitudinous wildlife, and amazing views.

Current projects include the rebuilding tees and the addition of back tees, to stretch the tips a bit. Trees have been pruned to allow sun to reach the most sensitive, grass-growing areas (greens and tees). If there ever was a look-at-us-now project among the panel of NYS Park golf courses, Springbrook Greens would give all others some stiff competition.

Saint Lawrence

The St. Lawrence state park course, a nine-hole affair across a wee road from the eponymous seaway, might nip Beaver Island (near Buffalo) for the Closest To Canada prize. The layout sits barely across a road adjacent to the shoreline, less than a mile from Ontario’s beaches. Since the STLS is a bit thinner than the mighty Niagara, it appears that the award goes to St. Lawrence.

St. Lawrence State Park Golf Course is a stand-alone feature, made up simply of a golf course. It was a privately owned layout for many years, near the city of Ogdensburg. The state purchased the acreage in the 1960s and leases the course to it present owners. The St. Lawrence course is a tiny, tidy experience, essentially a series of nine, straightish holes, the fairways are interrupted by the occasional crossing appearance of a wee burn, in the Scottish tradition.

From our inside folks at the course, we received this batch of intel:

“The Ogdensburg Golf Club was started in 1919 by a group of five Ogdensburg area golfers as a private golf and social club. Stock was issued to the original five investors and golfing privileges were obtained by the payment of annual dues to the club. The 151acre golf club, which consisted of five holes along the St. Lawrence River and four holes across New York State Route 37 were sold to New York State on December 18, 1967.
“The State of New York had plans to develop the remaining land into an 18-hole golf facility but those plans never came to fruition. The St. Lawrence State Park Golf Course was operated by New York State Parks until May of 2011 when it was leased to Golf Services, Inc. of Wellesley Island, NY.”

Wellesley Island

In the words of Peter McDermott, manager at the Wellesley Island State Park Golf Course, “(It) is a relatively short 9-hole course at 2,695 yards par 35 but the greens are tight and rewards the accurate shot.  Some of the more notable holes are two very challenging par 4’s, two drivable par 4’s and two scenic par 3’s.   For an added bonus, enjoy the captivating views of the St Lawrence River!”

Unlike its upstream neighbor at St. Lawrence State Park, Wellesley Island sits on the northern bank of the river, but still within the confines of New York State and the USA. The Wellesley course occupies a massive meadow, confined by trees but not defined by them. Rather than build a traditional, tree-lined fairway sequence common to the north country, Wellesley channelled the British Isles tradition of a wide open space for golf.

With one chapter remaining in our story of New York State Parks golf courses, we’re nearing the sad yet proud end to our journey. Still to come is the Long Island sojourn, followed by the Ryder Cup competition itself, at Bethpage Black.

Crossing to Bethpage Part One: Green Laks, Beaver Island, James Baird, the Bethpage Five

Crossing to Bethpage Part Two: Soaring Eagles, Chenango Valley, Indian Hills, Bonavista

Crossing to Bethpage Part Three: You just read it!

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