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A typical day of Korean golf, Gangnam style

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I think every golfer dreams of being on a beautiful golf course on a warm Saturday morning, surrounded by good friends and playing well to boot.

Perhaps in reading this, you might think that the above isn’t all that much to ask for; but then again, depending on where you are, it can quite a challenge.

I started playing golf in Korea from the fall of 2000 when there were less than 240 courses here, most of them being private member clubs. Booking a tee time was very difficult unless you owned a membership at a course (often hundreds of thousands of dollars), and I often tagged along with those who had such privileges.

If you were out of luck in the affluent acquaintance department, then you had to try to reserve a tee time at least 3-4 weeks in advance. If you were in a bigger hurry, some services offered ‘scalped’ tee times for a fee. These companies would book the preferred tee times in advance, and then sell them to golfers who wished to play on a specific day and time at a premium.

With tee times being so hard to come by, your foursome had to be committed to playing on D-day, come hell or high water. Walk-ons have never been allowed on any course and is still not in practice today. But what if a fourth in your group happens to be a no-show? The remaining three had to foot the cost of the absent player, caddy fee and all.

There were just too many eager golfers willing to pay Pebble Beach-esque prices and not enough golf courses.

GOLF IN KOREA, 2020

Fortunately, the number of golf courses has more than doubled here since 2000, and is projected to grow to a maximum of 600 (18-hole) courses by end of 2025. The price, however, still remains quite high.

Over 60 percent of these courses are public and access to tee times golf courses are easier than ever before. Nowadays, we can open an app on our mobile device and can usually reserve a tee time 1~3 days in advance. Progress.

But still, playing a round of golf in Korea is a labor of love.

It requires a full day with careful planning, taking into account the main factors as follows:

  • Choosing a foursome – As most courses still will charge green fees for FOUR players regardless of how many shows, all players are expected to show up on the day. If one has a less than a favorable track record of backing out last minute, they can expect to be uninvited to future foursomes.
  • Choosing a golf course – There’s no guarantee that tee time is open at a course we want. More often than not, courses are fully booked from sun up to sundown, so it’s more of a compromise of choosing from what available that fits everyone’s schedule. The mobile apps to help book tee times usually lists all the available times and days to choose from.
  • Price and location – As a general rule, the closer the course is to a large metropolis, the higher the green fee. Thus, cost and logistics, as well as the prestige of the golf and country club, also comes into play when choosing where to play. For example, from the Gangnam area of Seoul, most courses within 30-minute drive distance tend to be more expensive (green fee of $150~200) or more exclusive, meaning tee times are harder to come by. More distant courses may cost less at $80~150 but can take well over an hour each way along with toll fees and extra traffic.

Most courses are carved on the sides of low mountains and hills, with plenty of out-of-bounds stakes along most holes. This puts a premium on hitting the ball especially straight in Korean courses.

The golf season in Korea typically runs from late March to early November. For those willing to brave the cold weather, however, they can play all year round if well-prepared (my typical winter round is described below).

Outdoor rounds also tend to drop off during late July and August when the heat and humidity can be excruciating but otherwise, almost all of the courses in the country do robust business.

In peak season, golf courses can book up to 70~80 foursome per day, meaning tee times can be mere 7~8 minutes apart. With so many golfers, it can be time-consuming to hit a provisional and look for lost balls (which can result in less revenue!).

To save time and maintain the pace of play, Korean courses encourage golfers to continue to the OB/Hazard tee, which is marked in the fairway about 230-250 yards from the tee box. The golfer plays their 3rd or 4th shot from here depending on the penalty incurred from the errant tee shot.

Holes tend to be far apart, and most courses require you to ride a 5-seater power cart with a caddy. A single caddy is mandatorily assigned to a foursome to help with the pace of play, and also help fetch clubs, clean your golf ball, and occasionally help line up your putts. The foursome typically splits the cost of the caddy fee (120,000 KRW or about $100US) after the round.

Power carts are driven by the caddy and only on the cart path. The carts are also automated and can be controlled by a remote.

The clubhouses at many courses are enormous five-star resort-like buildings with high ceilings and chandeliers. Expensive sculptures and artwork decorate the vast lobbies and dining halls, and receptionists wear tailored suits or uniforms. Locker rooms and bathing facilities are opulent and meticulously maintained, making it feel like you’re at a luxury hotel rather than a golf course.

I’ve often wondered why a clubhouse would need to look like the Waldorf Astoria, but I’ve been told it’s a status thing that lingers from the old days. In fact, in the early years, I was reprimanded at two different country clubs for changing into shorts after a round of golf and walking into the front lobby. I wasn’t invited back to either clubs since then.

But things are definitely changing. In recent years, more golf clubs are allowing (proper length) shorts during the extremely hot summer months, and a formal jacket is no longer required at country clubs, save the very few most exclusive ones.

An average round here can last about five hours. It can be frustrating to be stuck behind a slow group as passing the foursome ahead is not allowed. Add to it an average of two hours to get to and from the course, along with time to shower and bathe (a social must!).

If you are playing with friends or entertaining business guests, having dinner together at a nearby restaurant is almost a certainty. All-in-all, if you spent less than $250 and managed to get back home within nine hours of having left, you’ve had a very successful day of golf. Seriously.

Despite all the obstacles of time and expense to play this often frustrating game, it seems we can’t get enough. In 2016, a report showed that over 3.3 million rounds of golf were played throughout the land of the morning calm and more potential golfers are waiting in the wings.

Not only do we like to play golf, we also work quite hard at improving our game through lessons, tons of practice and simulation golf, and the search for the latest and greatest equipment. So why is golf thriving here more than elsewhere despite the higher cost and time-consumption?

From my own experience, I think it’s mostly about social status.

In a country where golf requires a disproportionately large investment of time and money to play, a single-digit handicap is a sure-tell sign that one has the necessary means and the time to indulge this difficult game. Of course, this is just my opinion, and I’m sure not everyone plays golf for the sake of vanity.

But whereas my 8.2 handicap is not much of a deal back in Canada, here I am treated like a rock star in most golf circles (oddly enough, I seem to gravitate to those groups that treat me as such). But that’s a story for another time.

Some par-3 holes have a “hole-in-one” insurance machine. For 10,000 krw ($8.50), the foursome is insured for 2 mil. Krw ($1,700) payout in case of an Ace!

A TYPICAL (WINTER) ROUND OF GOLF

PLANNING FOR G-DAY

7 days to G-Day – After talking about playing a round of golf for over a month, I and three friends finally get around to syncing our schedules to book a tee time a week out in late February at a country club one of us has been raving about. Once the decision has been made and course booking confirmed, trash talk over messenger ensues.

3 days to G-Day – There had been no snow on the ground to speak of all through 2019 and 2020 winter, and yet Korea is hit with the biggest snowstorm resulting in 20cm of snow 3 days before our round. Crap. The course we have originally booked has informed us that they do not foresee their course being open on the day. Panic ensues.

2 days to G-Day – After checking all other options and frantically cross-check messaging each other, we finally decide on Shilla Country Club for the same day since one of us is only able to play that day. The most important factor in choosing this particular course wasn’t the price, travel time or location, but their reputation for being open most days.

The day before – Upon calling the course, Shilla CC says they will be open for business tomorrow but we will be playing at our own risk, since not all snow has been cleared or melted. “Oh, and perhaps you’d like to bring some orange-colored balls.”

GOLF DAY

9:00 AM – One of my friends arrives at my house to carpool to the country club, located 40 miles away, for our tee time at 11:12 am. Our navigation system shows that it will take about 67 minutes by car.

10:30 AM – We arrive on course to change and meet the other two at the clubhouse restaurant for breakfast/lunch. A typical meal at this time of day is about 15 dollars.

11:15 AM – After being greeted by our caddie and rolling a few putts on the practice green, we head to the first tee. After a light group stretch routine led by the caddy, we are away. Luckily, my first shot finds the left fairway despite a low pulled hook. Another short iron to an uphill green, but manage to scramble for a par. Great start and the snow is only spotty at best. Life is good.

Korea courses typically use a hardier type of grass that turns yellow in winter. Sturdier roots make for smaller irregular divots.

1:40 PM – After the front nine, we are told there are four groups ahead of us waiting to tee off the back nine. It is common to have a break/wait time of anywhere between 10-30 minutes between nines. We head into the restaurant/resting area next to the practice green to grab a snack and wait to be called.

2:05 PM – Food items and drinks are quite pricey at most courses and it’s no exception here. After a light snack of fishcake and soup, we tee up on the back nine with renewed hope and trash talk.

4:45 PM – We walk up the 18th fairway chatting how lucky we were in deciding not to cancel today’s round. It turned out to be a gorgeous sunny day, not nearly as cold as we thought it would be. The snow had mostly melted and wasn’t an issue for the most part. Now if only our scores could’ve been better…

5:00 PM – After paying (divide the total fee of about $100 and any tip by four) and thanking the caddy, she checks our clubs and asks for our signature to show all of our clubs are accounted for. Then we all go to the parking lot to put our golf bags into our respective cars, before retiring to the locker room.

5:35 PM – We chat about the game and how we played while soaking in a hot pool. All bathing amenities and towels are provided at the club. After changing into fresh clothes we brought with us, we go to the front desk to settle our tab for the day. Most golf courses pay after the round is done, which includes green fee (super cheap off-season price at $50!), my share of the power cart fee ($22) and any food/snacks we’ve eaten ($20), and anything procured at the pro shop. I print out my scorecard at the digital Kiosk to rub it in their noses of others during dinner.

5:45 PM – After checking the road navigation app, we decide to eat dinner nearby to wait for the evening traffic to lessen back into Seoul. A quick search of nearby restaurants on the App leads to one with favorable reviews by many past golfers who have visited. We all share the address by messenger and head out in our cars to meet at the restaurant.

6:50 PM – After a mediocre dinner, the navigation app indicates 62 minutes back home. We part ways at the restaurant with good-natured ribbing suggestive of a bigger ass-kicking next time and drive back home, careful not to fall asleep.

8:00 PM – We arrive at my place and my friend thanks me for the ride. He has another 15 miles to drive across to the other end of Seoul. I don’t envy him.

8:15 PM – Carefully placing my clubs back in the house, I shed out of my clothes like a chameleon and retire to bed early with my phone. Lack of sleep the night before and spending over nine hours for golf takes its toll!

But tomorrow is another day, and I have to be prepared both mentally and physically to go through this wonderful process at any time. For who knows when the opportunity to play golf in Korea may present itself next?

James is a golf gear-nut living and writing about all things golf in Korea. A fan of Tiger, Fred, and Seve, he is forever seeking the holy grail of golf clubs that will lower his score. He graduated from the University of British Columbia in Vancouver, BC, Canada and has been in Korea to witness the explosive growth of golf since 1996. Despite playing golf for over 30 years and being a perpetual 10-handicapper, James steadfastly claims to be the embodiment of the Average Joe Korean golfer. He can be reached at jimmyinseoul@gmail.com, and often introduces cool new Asia-based golf gear on YouTube and Instagram.

14 Comments

14 Comments

  1. CrashTestDummy

    Feb 1, 2021 at 1:40 am

    So, how do you play golf if you are a single and don’t speak Korean? Lol. Can you just show up to the course in off-peak times (weekdays) and they will pair you up with a group? It seems like all golf courses only book foursomes.

    • James

      Jun 28, 2021 at 5:55 pm

      Only foursomes are able to book a tee tume in Korea on most all courses. There are apps to join golfer prior to showing up at a course.

  2. Steve

    Oct 20, 2020 at 9:19 pm

    “But whereas my 8.2 handicap is not much of a deal back in Canada, here I am treated like a rock star in most golf circles (oddly enough, I seem to gravitate to those groups that treat me as such). But that’s a story for another time.”

    I’m interested to know how your handicap has changed in Korea. While I might play at +10 in Canada, the OB system here bumps it up.

    It’s one reason why I like a particular screen golf place here; you can turn off OB and just have to worry about hazards! It’s like playing back home, and I can sometimes shoot under par on an easier course.

  3. Danny M.

    Mar 23, 2020 at 9:09 am

    That “sturdy” grass you’re talking about is Zoysia.

  4. Paul

    Mar 23, 2020 at 3:22 am

    I don’t think the reason why golf in Korea is so expensive is because of social status.
    There is a reason why south korean courses are made by carving mountains.
    The government views golf as a luxury sport and thus will not give permission to build golf courses on more suitable flat lands(which are normally reserved for farming/housing/industrial uses..”essential” to the economy). The south korean government constantly fails to realize the economic benefits a course can bring to the local economy(this is entirely another topic). This drives the price of making a golf course to unimaginable levels(10 million USD+) and to cover such expenses, the cost to play golf is about $300 on weekends. What is most surprising is that people actually pay these ridiculous prices! Golf is booming in Korea and I doubt the price will fall at all. Amazing..

    • Dan

      Mar 23, 2020 at 9:12 am

      Thank god Korea’s golf simulator industry is so ahead.
      Paying like $20 to play virtual 18 holes beats waking up at 5am, driving an hour and a half and paying a minimum of $200

  5. Jack

    Mar 22, 2020 at 9:15 pm

    Other than the no walk on part, sounds a ton better than golf in Hong Kong, where there is just one public course and 4 private locations. Love the yellow grass never knew why it looked like that. Good write up!

  6. Caroline

    Mar 22, 2020 at 8:55 pm

    Sounds like California 2 years from now, if that long. What the cost of water does not close the governor will make sure the land is re-zoned for housing as the Sanctuary State rolls on.

    • Brandon

      Mar 22, 2020 at 10:26 pm

      So true, Caroline. It’s a sad state of affairs out here. I was lucky to play yesterday at a course that had been resisting the forced closure, but they are closed now. No golf for anyone for a couple of months it sounds like.

      • Joey5Picks

        Mar 25, 2020 at 12:48 am

        Such a shame you have to take a break for a few weeks to stem the pandemic and limit the number of deaths.

  7. Johnny Newbern

    Mar 22, 2020 at 6:51 pm

    Really cool piece here, James. I learned a ton. Keep up the good work.

  8. Jeff

    Mar 22, 2020 at 4:34 pm

    Interesting that you would not arrive earlier to practice or partake in the amenities. Are there normally driving ranges at Korean gc’s?

    • Daniel Han

      Mar 22, 2020 at 6:30 pm

      From my experience most don’t have driving ranges. It’s tough to build a range on the side of a mountain. But there are plenty of ranges near the courses. Most just have a putting green

  9. dj

    Mar 22, 2020 at 2:49 pm

    This makes me appreciate my local golf courses!

    Thanks for sharing.

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Courses

Fairways & Getaways: Discovering a tropical golf gem in Indonesia

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If you’re a golf equipment enthusiast, you may already know that the US, followed by Japan and Korea, are the three biggest golf markets in the world. But if you delve a little bit deeper, you’d be amazed to find out how popular golf is in Asia in general.

Golf’s popularity in Asia has never been stronger. From Japan’s long history with the game to Korea’s high-tech indoor simulators, the sport has carved out a distinct identity across the region, especially with golf tourism. For decades, Thailand and the Philippines have been popular golf travel destinations for us in the Eastern hemisphere. More recently, the golf scene in Indonesia has also seen a rapid rise. With a growing community of homegrown golf influencers and its own major golf retail chains stocked with the latest gear from around the world, the game of golf is no longer just imported — it’s thriving on its own terms.

With state-of-the-art golf stores and facilities like Asia Golf and influencers abound (@evansetiawan90lf), Indonesia golf scene is booming.

Located a stone’s throw across the strait from Singapore, Batam in Indonesia is a popular golf destination for golfers in Singapore, Malaysia, and of course, Korea.

Batam is located just a short 30-minute ferry ride from Singapore, but it also has a direct flight to and from Korea, which made the travel plans all that much easier for me. So when the chance came to experience Indonesian golf firsthand, I jumped at the opportunity to join my friends for some quality golf and sightseeing.

Below is my account of discovering Batam’s very own Palm Springs Golf & Country Club (real name!)—an under-the-radar resort that proves Asia’s growth in golf is as much about quality as it is about enthusiasm.

Not to be confused with the more famous US counterpart, Palm Springs G&CC in Batam is a great golfing experience.

The Layout

Palm Springs is a 27-hole championship course with three distinct nines—Palm, Island, and Resort—each with its own flavor. The Palm Course is the sternest test, winding between rainforest and sea with steep greens and strategic hazards. The Island Course plays through mangroves an doglegs, demanding accuracy with every swing, while the Resort Course is the most forgiving, with generous fairways, rolling elevation, and gentle greens that let you breathe a little easier.

I played all three during my trip, and what struck me most was how different each course played, yet how seamlessly they flowed together. One round I’d be battling mangrove-lined fairways, and the next I’d be standing on a tee box looking straight out at the South China Sea, across the sea towards Singapore.

One of the many “signature holes” to be enjoyed at Palm Springs. Singapore can be seen just to the left corner.

Diverse golf experience from seaside views to tropical jungle and mangrove forests can be seen.

Each golfer is paired with a caddie and power cart to roam the course and enjoy the surrounding scenery.

The Experience

The greens here surprised me. Official stimp numbers of 2.8–3.0 meters (9.2~9.8 feet) felt faster in reality, thanks to subtle undulations and deceptive slopes. Staying below the hole became essential to help with my struggling putting stats, and the mere thought of rolling into the greenside bunkers triggered an involuntary sweat response.

Don’t be fooled by “resort golf” moniker as the Palm course offers more than enough challenge for the better golfers.

Rough was no joke as the ball tended to nestle down all too snug for my taste and skills!

I couldn’t quite place the type of grass on the greens, but suffice to say it kicked my butt all three rounds.

The type of grass found here are not what I was used to in Korea and the US. I found myself thinning way more shots for fear that the club head would not be able to escape the turf. The rough was also clingier than a debtor who hasn’t been paid in months and clawed at my irons and wedges with a vengeance.

The number of bunkers also made me wary on most holes. On my first loop around the Palm Course, I think I found one on almost every hole, whether it be a huge fairway bunker or a high-lipped trap towards a pin sloping away from me. The upside was that I was getting fairly good with my sand wedge towards the end of my trip, though if it could talk I’m sure it’d ghost me.

Then there were the monkeys. Yes, monkeys. On one par-4, I stood over my ball and looked up to see a troop of them, young and old, perched in the trees, watching intently. I swear one cocked its head in disappointment as I yanked my drive into the mangroves. They make for tough critics.

Bunkers were found aplenty on all three courses.

Whether guarding the green or impeding my ball from the fairway, the bunkers added to the overall scenery of the course.

I didn’t expect monkeys to be on hand to judge my swings, but they were a fun distractions. Be careful not to leave phones and wallets unattended though.

Clubhouse & Facilities

The clubhouse feels more like a resort hotel than a golf facility—two pro shops, dual restaurants (including a dedicated Korean buffet and an Indonesian dining hall), a ballroom, VIP lockers, sauna, gym, and more.

Classic Southeast Asian architecture from the entrance and throughout the clubhouse. All walkways are covered in case of the occasional squalls that blow through unexpectedly.

The club is said to have over 200 caddies to host large scale tournaments and events, including weddings and galas.

Practice facilities are top-tier, too. The driving range points out over the water, with floating targets, and the putting green near the first tee rolls true. I warmed up with a few putts, thinking I had the pace dialed in—only to have my very first birdie attempt scream by the hole a good 10 feet. The greens here demand respect… lesson learned.

Practice facilities were quite good, and also had a practice hole for serious golfers to hit everything from drivers, irons, wedges and putts.

The practice shots can be aimed at specific targets, including floating ones.

Accommodations

I based at Batam View Beach Resort, just 10 minutes from the course and 25 minutes from the airport. A four-star property, it delivered all the essentials—ocean-view rooms, pool, fitness center, and post-round massages (though pricier than in town).

The Batam View Beach Hotel was close by to the course and accessible by a shuttle on call. Quiet and peaceful with good food, service, and a live band in the evenings made for more than a golf trip.

One detail I really appreciated was the late checkout option on weekdays. For about $30–40, I could shower, change, and relax until 10 pm before heading to the airport. On weekends, when that wasn’t possible, our operator booked us into a nearby condo suite overlooking the 9th hole. Sitting on the balcony with a cold drink, watching other groups finish their round, wasn’t a bad way to end the trip.

You can also stay at the golf condo nestled right on the course, overlooking the island course.

Private and cozy with a small kitchen, shower, and Netflix.

Golf is just a wedge away from the golf condo and apartments.

Local Flavor

Aside from championship golf, Batam’s seafood scene is worth the trip alone. At a popular restaurant recommended by our guide, we walked a good mile out onto the open sea to a restaurant perched on stilts above the water. The local delicacy of chili crabs and black pepper shrimps were amazing in taste and freshness, and the perfect complement to the local beer. Another popular delicacy I tried was gong-gong, a small sea snail delicacy that locals ate like we snack on peanuts. I wasn’t sure at first, but by the third bite I was hooked on the dipping sauce.

After dinner, we wandered through the local night markets to the sights and scents of sizzling skewers, tropical fruit stands, and chatter of locals enjoying the balmy yet slightly cool tropical evening. The scene was completely different from the greens and fairways earlier that day, but the experience on the whole was just amazing.

The walk out to a floating restaurant was as great as the food served.

The atmosphere was casual and inviting, with some actually fishing over the side of the restaurant.

The local cuisine was spot on to my taste with a diverse menu for the even the most adventurous gourmet.

Final Thoughts

Palm Springs in Batam may not yet have the global name recognition of other Asian resorts, but it checks all the boxes of strategic golf, first-class facilities, comfortable lodging, and a taste of local culture.

For me, it turned out that the trip wasn’t just about golf. While sweating over a six-foot downhill putt with monkeys judging from nearby is unforgettable, so was the delight in or cracking open a chili crab on a wooden deck in the middle of the ocean, lounging by the pool with a local beer, and the kindness shared by the locals every step of the trip.

If you’re ever headed to Singapore and want more than city lights and shopping, be sure to bring your clubs and look into a short ferry ride across the strait. Batam’s Palm Springs G&CC is a tropical golf gem that deserves a spot on your Asia travel list.

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3 money-saving tips for your golf trip

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When it comes to saving money on your golf trip, there are no shortage of suggestions. We’re leveraging our expertise to present you with a trio.

  1. Travel during the off-season
  2. Choose the right destination
  3. Book a rental home/villa

Travel during the off-season

Every golfer enjoys playing in ideal weather and course conditions: sunny and warm with manicured fairways and rolling greens. However, playing in such conditions can come at a premium price which is why you should consider booking your golf trip during the off-season. Off-season golf trips give golfers the opportunity to play amazing courses without the high price tag of peak season and courses are usually quieter so you will be able to enjoy your round without feeling rushed! 

Here’s a quick breakdown of the off-season by destination:

Florida, Scottsdale, Vegas, and Palm Springs. If you can take the heat, you will get the lowest prices of the year when you travel during the summer months (June – September). Make sure to book your tee times early so you can enjoy your round before the heat of the day and enjoy an afternoon to chill by the pool or explore the local attractions!

North Carolina, South Carolina, and Alabama. The Southeast states usually have mild weather during the winter months (mid-November to mid-March) with temperatures in the 50s/low 60s, but you can still play great golf at a fraction of the cost.

Choose the right destination

Every golfer in the world dreams of playing bucket list golf courses like TPC Sawgrass or Pebble Beach, but it can be a sticker shock when it comes to the cost. If you’re looking to get the best bang for your buck, there are plenty of other golf destinations to choose from. Two of the best value destinations for a golf trip are Orlando, FL and Myrtle Beach, SC.  Both destinations offer a wide variety of courses, hotels, and resorts so that you can play more rounds of golf and stay on budget!

Here are some customer-favorite golf itineraries from Orlando and Myrtle Beach:

Barefoot Resort  – Four courses and villa accommodations all onsite

Orlando Golf Tour  – Hotel stay in the middle of the action and play the area’s popular courses

Myrtle Beach Golf Tour  – Oceanfront villa accommodation and your choice of over 100 courses to play

Omni Orlando at Championsgate  – Beautiful resort with two courses onsite and a range of accommodation options

Book a rental home or villa

One of the lesser-known secrets to getting good value on your golf trip is to book a rental home or villa. While hotel rooms might seem more convenient, a rental home gives you more space to stretch out, the option of cooking your own meals (save money on the pricey restaurant bills), and a comfortable “home away from home.” Many of the golf resorts across the country have rental homes or villas onsite so you don’t have to leave the property to play golf. If you’re looking to go to one of the bigger golf destinations (Scottsdale, Palm Springs, Orlando, and Myrtle Beach), there is an abundance of rentals to choose from. 

Here are some of the top picks for rental homes and villas:

Villas at Kiawah Island Golf Resort  – From comfortable villas to luxurious homes, this fantastic resort is ideal for groups of all sizes

Encore Resort at Reunion  – Centrally located to many of the courses in Orlando, you’ll have a choice of 4-13 bedroom homes — perfect for large groups

Myrtlewood Villas  – With two golf courses onsite and many more a short drive away, you will have plenty of golf to choose from

Scottsdale Homes and Condos  – Choose from hundreds of rentals from across the city with great golf just a short distance away

Editor’s note: This article is presented in partnership with Golfbreaks. When you make a purchase through links in this article, GolfWRX may earn an affiliate commission. 

 

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19th Hole

The biggest golf resort you never knew (but should)

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As a Korean-Canadian and an avid golfer for over 35 years, I am fortunate to have played on many beautiful golf courses in the West and the Far East. I still have a boatload of courses like Pebble Beach and St. Andrews on my bucket list, but I came to learn that Asia had plenty of such places to visit as well.

I have recently had the good fortune of playing the iconic Blackstone Golf Club at Mission Hills Resort in China, which is consistently ranked as one of the best courses in Asia. Blackstone is particularly famous for hosting the Tiger Woods vs. Rory McIlroy exhibition ‘The Match at Mission Hills’ in 2013. The event brought international attention to the sprawling luxury resort and boosted the level of interest in the game in the region.

Before delving into my amazing experience at Blackstone Golf Club, here is a little bit of information about the best golf resort you may never heard of.

Tiger and Rory faced off at the very course I was at in 2013. Don’t worry, I won’t spoil it by telling you who won.

The Best Golf Resort in The World?

Mission Hills Golf and Resort is located in the southern part of China on Hainan Island, which is about the size of Maine. Often referred to as the Hawaii of China, its tropical location gives the island year-round sunshine with temperatures between 75~90°F in the winter and 60~75°F in the summer. Along with dozens of other notable golf resorts and courses on the Island, the resort is a popular destination for golfers from Asia, Europe, and as far away as Australia and New Zealand.

Mission Hills first opened its doors in early 2010 with the aim of becoming the best resort in the world. I’m not sure if they achieved their goal, but before you smirk at their ambitiousness, Mission Hills is currently listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the World’s largest golf resort with a total of 10 world-class golf courses. That is an astounding 180 championship-class golf holes in one resort! The courses are designed by the talented Schmidt-Curley Design team who are behind some of the best courses in Asia and around the world.

The Blackstone Golf Club is considered the “crown jewel” course at Mission Hills Resort and gets its name from the plethora of black lava rock that is found all over the course as part of its beautiful charm. But don’t be fooled by its rugged beauty, as the monster-long Blackstone has hosted several World Cup of Golf championships (guess who teamed up for the US to win in 2011?) and the annual World Ladies Championships. It also hosts the annual World Celebrity Pro-Am attended by an amazing A-list of screen stars, pro golfers, and elite athletes from around the world.

So yeah, the course is quite good.

On top of that, the resort holds another world’s best distinction, with a total of 168 different hot springs and pools within the resort. Unfortunately, I was too immersed in playing golf to take advantage of a good hot soak, but it will be on the top of my list to do with my whole family next time.

Now, let’s take a close look at what the Blackstone course was all about, and keep in mind that the course descriptions and opinions are all my own from experience and perspective.

The early morning view outside the hotel room overlooking the course and resort is breathtaking

Greens

The green condition was quite superb, albeit a bit slow from Western standards. According to the caddie, the green speed was measured at about 2.9 meters, which translates to about 9.5 on the stimp meter. A speed of 7 is considered to be slow, and the average PGA Tour event is said to be about 12, so for us average folk the greens were rolling well.

The green size is quite large with nearly 5700 square feet average in size with less-than-subtle undulations and big rolling plateaus. The pins were placed slightly towards the front left of the green this day, and the approach shots were challenging for us amateurs to stuff close. The ball rolled straight and true to where it was aimed, and I only had myself to blame for missed short putts.

I don’t know if its an Asian thing, but we seem to have many courses with big greens and sometimes ridiculously big undulations and plateaus on them. We even have bunkers in the middle of the green, sometimes!

Fairways

Unlike many of the Korean courses I’m used to, the fairways are lush and readily yielded nice dollar-sized divots from well-struck iron shots into the greens. The course itself is huge and it was reflected in the long wide fairways stretching from tee to green.

Most of the fairways seemed to be free of readily noticeable trouble areas, meaning that what you see was what you got. However, upon close inspection, there were many subtle undulations which caused the stance to be slightly uneven at address. It wasn’t like St. Andrews level of fairway undulations, but it was there.

Also, the big prominent fairways bunkers often came into play and caused me to consciously aim away from them, which left longer approach shots into the green. We were somehow feeling confident this day and were playing from the blue tees. And for a guy who averages 240-yard drives on my best days, those small detours inevitably added 1-2 clubs more to the next shot.

Fairways were rolling nicely but were still a bit damp due to the sporadic short rain bursts.

Most fairways were quite wide, though it didn’t keep our balls from escaping into the jungle.

Rough

Truth to tell, the rough wasn’t all that intimidating, as it was only modestly long, and the wide fairways pushed the rough back considerably. As it wasn’t tournament season and the course was set up to mostly cater to vacationers, it made sense not to make the rough too punishing.

Beyond the rough was mostly deep jungle-like vegetation, which made it next to impossible to hit the ball out of, let alone find it in the first place.  Thanks to our amateur ball-striking abilities, however, we easily overpowered the hapless wide fairways to appease the jungle gods with our many golf balls.

The rough is almost non-existent from tee to green, except for a little bit around the bunkers and extreme sides of the fairways. The course is very long, so I guess they want golfers to relax and not get high blood pressure?

Fairway and 1st-cut rough

Bunkers

Blackstone had no shortage of fairway and greenside bunkers to daunt the average golfer. The many fairway bunkers were often quite large, and despite the mostly wide fairways, some were placed just at the right (?) places to catch drives that strayed left or right off the tee. Standing on the tees, the presence of so many bunkers was aesthetically pleasing yet intimidating at the same time.

The bunkers were meticulously raked and pristine, with the sand looking visually heavy but being very soft. Maintaining the bunkers to this level of readiness cannot be easy, as there are 10 courses at this resort! Even if there were just two bunkers per hole, that’s still 360 sand traps to rake and prep each day! Add to this the fairways and greens, not to mention the decorative foliage, the level of course maintenance at this level is quite mind-boggling.

I also don’t recall seeing any flat bunkers, as most seemed to have a healthy amount of incline at the front to make it harder to move the ball forward a long way. The greenside bunkers were also deeper and usually presented an upslope lie, and the shots had to have some climb to escape from them. If you have trouble hitting the ball straight, be sure to sharpen your bunker play when you visit Blackstone.

With the frightening number of bunkers at Blackstone, I only managed to get into two of them. I even managed to get up and down on one of them.

Bunkers and blackstones aplenty.

Despite being only the second time in a bunker, this one on the 18th cost me a devastating double bogey.

Tee To Green

Blackstone’s monstrous 7808 yards should satisfy most golfers’ urge to go all out on their shots. From the blues, it was still a challenging 6722 yards, and I don’t mind saying it felt longer than that all day.

Most of the pins can be seen from the tee box, and despite some slightly rolling fairways, Blackstone is a mostly-level parkland course without any significant drop or rise in elevation. Sprawling over a huge area of land, the holes do not double back in parallel but stretch forward through dense foliage, making for a scenic ride in the golf cart. One thing I also appreciated was the leisurely pace of play. The group ahead and behind were not visible for nearly the entire round, despite our less-than-quick pace of play.

From tee to green in its entirety, the course was in amazing shape and condition. The unexpected tropical golf experience was nothing short of amazing, and if I had to make a comparison to some of the other memorable tracks I’ve visited, the Hoakalei Country Club and Turtle Bay Resort (Palmer design) in Hawaii come to mind, along with Korea’s own Haesley Nine Bridge Club, which consistently ranks as one of the best courses in Asia.

The pictures below don’t do justice to the course, but I’m sure you’ll get the idea.

The sky was particularly blue and the course beautiful; so much so that my foursome didn’t seem to mind carding doubles and triples over and over again. What a joy.

For us short-hitters, we had to aim for the middle of the many bunkers and hope for the best.

If I had a dollar for every time one of us wished we owned a penthouse in one of the many condos dotting the resort…

Many holes are carved right through a lush jungle with a huge modern condo looming in the background.

Cluster bunkers are to be avoided at all costs.

The view from the 1st hole tee at Blackstone.

Looking like a pro in front of the picture board at the 18th tee… then promptly topping a drive 100 yards out. At least I looked good on camera.

Caddies & Carts

Unlike most courses in the West, golf clubs in Asia require each golfer to play with a mandatory caddie and golf cart. Also, if you each decide to have an additional caddie to help hold the umbrella, it can make for a sizeable group of 12 (greens keepers would be tossing in their beds in the west)! So how do the caddies move if you’re driving a power cart, you ask? They simply hop onboard the back of the buggy.

On this day, we ‘only’ had four caddies to attend our play, and they were fantastic. Despite my initial concerns, the language barrier was not an issue as they were conversant in all the needed terminology in English and Korean. This was a pleasant surprise, as I was able to ask more about the course to help my play, and there was always Google Translate.

The caddie fee was 500 yuan each, which is about $70 US. They were highly professional and quick on their feet, and I could tell that the resort had gone to good lengths in training the caddies (said to be 2000 in number!) to make the golfing experience enjoyable for their international guests.

Each foursome of caddies had a ‘master caddie’ that led the other three and acted to translate longer dialogues as needed. They had a good knowledge of the course and general breaks on greens. But don’t expect them to be like the actual caddies like for the pros. They are mostly for offering simple advice on reading greens, cleaning and handing over your clubs, and helping you to find your balls.

Not gonna lie… having a personal caddie wait on your every shot was nerve-wracking at first.

Resort & Facilities

Mission Hills Haikou has a 500-room hotel with several fine-dining restaurants and high-end boutiques within the main wing and the adjoining annex. They also have a shopping mall within the hotel featuring global brands like Taylormade, Adidas, and Skechers, along with a slew of high-end golf brands to luxury watches and whiskies.

The view from my room on the 9th floor was something to write home about, along with the impeccable services. Truth to tell, I had previously heard several horror stories of less-than-friendly services which led me to refrain from visiting China prior. That must’ve been a different country, as Mission Hills pulled out all the stops to impress and awe its visitors, and it certainly worked on me. We were treated like kings on and off the course, and the hotel personnel was on hand to assist us everywhere we went.

The entire resort complex was like a huge labyrinth of spas, pools, shops, and golf courses. They nearly had everything, including an incredible hotel buffet and several ethnic cuisines, a nightclub and karaoke, and an entire museum-like wing dedicated to the many celebrities and pro golfers that have played here. I could have stayed for hours simply looking at their vast collection of golf memorabilia. My golf buddy called it a golf heaven on earth, and I couldn’t agree more.

Again, the pics won’t be able to fully capture the experience, but they’ll give you an idea of the enormous size and quality of the place.

Spic and span to receive guests after a long hiatus during COVID-19, I bet.

I stayed in a nice-sized suite on the 9th floor with a good view overlooking the resort and course.

The tub is actually quite big and probably could fit three of me in it comfy.

The hotel service had complimentary ramen and beers, along with the local fruit.

Early morning view out the window showed the course shrouded in ground fog.

I wasn’t planning to do any swimming when I initially packed for the trip. Next time.

The pool behind the main hotel had sandy beaches!

A huge maze of trails and covered walkways branching off to a vast number of pools, hot springs, and saunas.

The morning buffet was one of the best I had in a while, with a full line up of both Asian and Western foods.

A sign at the entrance of the buffet showed the daily condition of the 10 golf courses.

Hotel Shops & Amenities

The shops inside the lobby were all high-end as well as ones I didn’t think to expect like the NBA-themed shop, Hennessy whiskey and Tabasco hot sauce shops!

Then there were dozens more shops in a whole other building next to the hotel, lined with the palm prints of celebrities and stars. The sheer size and scale of Mission Hills was outrageous.

Trip Overview

Hainan is a tropical Island in the South China Sea and can get quite hot and humid during the summer monsoon season. By plane, it took 4.5 hours from Korea to Hainan.

Interestingly, Hainan Island is designated as a tourist zone by the Chinese government and does not require a visa prior to arrival. It is issued when you arrive at the airport and go through customs.

During the end of 2023 when the trip took place, COVID-19 restrictions were largely over and there were the simplest of checks (1-2 minutes) using a machine to detect any virus before entering and exiting the airport.

The resort itself was only about a 15-minute bus ride from the airport. For those who travel often to Asia, they’ll know that courses and resorts can be up to two hours from the airport.

A brief warm-up on the range and armed with complimentary golf balls, we were off to the first tee.

True to its name, the course had stone walls and fences made from the igneous black lava rock.

Except for the absence of the sound of waves, the ambiance reminded me of courses in Hawaii.

Loved the open skies and the awesome panoramic views!

Be sure to pack some strong sunscreen and sports drinks or salt candy. The tropical climate can get quite hot and humid at midday.

Blackstone plays to par 73 and 6722 yards from the blue. I was happy with the score especially when the caddies told me it was the best they’ve seen in a while, LOL!!!

It looked like they were planning to build even more courses and condos. These folks sure like to think big.

Wall-to-wall memorabilia on display from past majors, champions, and legends of the game. So this is where all those signed Masters flags were!

The three-day stay went by all too fast… (T^T)

As part of the package, we were also shown to the largest duty-free shop in Asia. These guys have a thing for being the biggest, grandest, and most opulent; and it was awesome.

It seemed as if every brand of luxury was represented here, and it would’ve taken hours to see it all. If your partner is into this kind of stuff, leave them at home in case they get in the way of your golf.

A final meal at a popular restaurant before heading to the airport. Can you guess the menu? Yup, Chinese, but like nothing you see in the West. It was all delicious to boot.

Met a new friend while waiting for the limousine bus to take us the rest of the way. Even these guys were BIG.

After a rather simple and quick immigration and boarding process, we were safely on our way home to Korea. I have to give credit to the authorities for making the immigration/airport customs process simple and quick. Sometimes everything can be great, only to be ruined by a last-minute glitch or hold-up at the airport, and there were none.

A short nap and back in Seoul. I can’t wait to go back again soon with the whole family to jump in the hot springs. Now if I can only find a way to go visit Pebble Beach and St. Andrews similarly, I’m set. Wish me luck.

 

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